As night settled in yesterday, so did a cloud cover and rain. So much for weather forecast accuracy. There went our last, albeit small, chance of catching a view of the Northern Lights. Regardless, it has been a wonderful experience to see and to learn about Norway. The natural beauty and sparse population makes it feel as if the whole country is a national park.
Coastal Area Before Sunset
Final Dinner On-Board Ms. Midnatsol: Kendal, Andre, Sue, Roselie
A speech pattern that we’ve found interesting, and have opted to adopt as we see fit, reflects their relaxed, altruistic, and unperturbed decorum. They live in the moment, and they value nature and their country– they epitomize the approach of working to live. They don’t get rattled. Less work and move living is a primary driving force. Just as we good-naturedly call attention to Canadians’ arbitrary addition of ‘eh’ in various places as they speak, Norwegians like to add “or…(slight pause)…not”. For example, they instruct us to put on our seat belts for safety reasons…or…not. Dinner is being served, so please find your table…or …not. Disembarkment will take place at 2:30 PM…or…not.
Soooo, we will see the Northern Lights…or…not!
We are not discouraged or deterred from our mission to see the lights. As we waited to dock and disembark, we’ve planned our next strategic move. We will monitor Aurora Borealis activity in Alaska. As activity picks up, we will, impromptu fly to Fairbanks, Alaska for a few days to catch a view. We are on a mission.
After arriving in Bergen, also known as the city of seven hills and seven fjords, this afternoon, we took a short tour – it was raining with patches of sleet. Our guide pointed out that this is the wettest city in Norway with an average of 230 days of rain or snow each year. Jokingly, they refer to rain as one of their key tourist attractions. We took a short walk thru the old part that is named Bryggen and is protected as a national monument as well as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The wooden buildings along the waterfront are more than 300 years old.
Down Town Bergen
Buildings In Bryggen – Old Town Section of Bergen
Honoring Cod Fishing
Bergen City Center
Until Oslo became the largest city in Norway, Bergen carried that title, with a population of about a quarter million people. It was founded at the start of the eleventh century. Today, it is the busiest port in Norway with more than 300 cruise ship and half a million passenger visits per year. It is a trading center. The economy is heavily driven by fishing and the oil industry.
Starting in the 12th and 13th centuries, German merchants, known as the Hanseatic League, dominated the city. The league was a commercial and defensive confederation of merchant guild that had trading posts in many British and Northern Europe ports cities. The Hanseatic people (also known as Hansahad) lived in a very restricted area and could not inter-marry with Norwegians. They spoke a Germanic dialect and owned exclusive rights to trade with northern fishermen. They were a force in the region until the 16th century when Sweden and Denmark achieved military and economic strength to eclipse the Hansa ports. Interestingly, the Hansa name continues to be in use throughout Germany, e.g. Lufthansa Airlines.
Just like every town we’ve visited, Bergen suffered town-leveling fires, military actions, and the Black Plague. In 1349, a British vessel unintentionally brought the Black Plague to Bergen and Norway. It caused the death of more than 70% of the population of Bergen, 30-60% of Europe’s population, and more than 200 million worldwide. The world population did not recover to pre-plague levels (700 million) until the 17th century.
In April 1944, during the Nazi occupation, a Dutch merchant ship loaded with 120 tons of German dynamite exploded in the harbor, killing more than 100 people and damaging historic buildings. Below you will find an old photo of Bryggen buildings right after the explosion, followed with a photo of the same buildings today. Coincidentally we enjoyed a great dinner at a restaurant in these buildings. Our hotel, also a 300-year-old building is just to the right, outside the view in the photo.
April, 1944 After Explosion Of Dynamite Laden Ship
Same Buildings Today + Some Rain, Of Course
This morning, we are taking a seven hour train right through beautiful scenery of fjords, forests, and high altitude passes blanketed with snow. Absolutely gorgeous. Given the train windows and speed of travel, taking photos is a challenge. I’ve succeeded in jumping onto a train platform during some of our stops to steal a couple of photos.
Ready To Board The Train To Oslo
Scenery Along The Way To Oslo
Train Stop To Pick Up Skiers Returning To Oslo
I am writing and posting this blog from the train. The WiFi coverage, EVERYWHERE, in this region is amazing. No passwords, no fees. Again, why can’t the technological leader in the world provide this?
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