Arising this morning we discovered we had tied up early this morning to a pier near the medieval village of Dürnstein with a population of less than one thousand. It is a very popular tourist destination, most noted for its wine and apricot harvest. The ruins of the Dürnstein Castle sit on a hill overlooking the village. King Richard I of England (Richard the Lionheart) was held captive there by the Duke of Austria in 1192, following a dispute between the two during the Third Crusade. He was released and allowed to return to England in 1194 after England agreed to pay an enormous ransom of 150,000 marks in silver.
Approaching Dürnstein on our ship
Dürnstein Castle – King Richard I’s prison
During the Napoleonic Wars, the unexpected Battle of Dürnstein in 1805, between Napoleon and a much larger Austro-Russian Army, resulted in a draw (even though both claimed victory) with more than 1,700 French and 4,000 Russian casualties. The remains of thousands of these men are at rest in a crypt in the Dürnstein cemetery. It was not one of the great battles in history, but it was mentioned in Tolstoy’s War and Peace.
The Dürnstein signature blue church steeple
The abbey’s courtyard
Yes, every post MUST have a photo of the inside of the local church
The blue church steeple, near an old monastery, is a readily seen landmark along the Danube. Once on shore, we visited the picturesque courtyard in front of the Augustinian Canons abbey entrance – founded in 1410 and dissolved in 1788. The church was modified in the 1710 to the Baroque style. Just like every church we’ve visited on this trip, it has a unique and interesting history. So much information, so many stories, that they all begin to meld together in our minds. The church itself, while charming, does not see a lot of use. Currently, the monastery offers rooms for seminars, concerts, exhibitions, and for wine tasting. A five-star hotel to serve the tourist and business clients anchors one end of the main street.
Shuttle boats to the RV park across the Danube
A trailer/RV/camping park for those on a tighter budget, is located directly across the Danube. Since there are no bridges along this valley, the campers can take advantage of small, on-demand shuttle boats to reach Dürnstein to shop or dine.
The main street through Dürnstein
It takes all of about 15 minutes to walk from one end of Dürstein to the other. The village caters primarily to tourists with several shops offering imported souvenirs along with locally made marmalade, syrup, and liquors from the Marillen apricots grown in this region. It is best known for its wineries. We were treated to wine tasting in a wine cellar, once the aging cellar for barrels of wine. We enjoyed the rosé so much that we purchase a bottle for tonight’s dinner.
Mountain vineyards – note the latter to reach the next row of vines
Wine tasting cellar
Prost! To friends with a delightful rosé
The vineyards are located along the steep, rocky hills, giving the wine a unique flavor. The slopes are so steep that in many cases, a ladder is required to access the next row of vines. All the wineries are family owned, have very limited output, and depend on a coop to process the grapes during the harvest season.
Passing the village of Weißenkirchen in the Wachau Valley
Passing the village of Spitz
Fourteenth century church
Another, quaint village with its centerpiece church
We spent the rest of the day cruising through the Wachau Valley on our way to our next destination – Linz/Salzburg. The Wachau valley is 24 miles long, stretching between the towns of Krems and Melk. It is definitely the most scenic part of our Danube trip. Small villages, hamlets dot both sides of the river. Very charming. Very relaxing. A wonderful opportunity to lay on the sun deck and enjoy the passing scenery.
Ms Joy tied up at Dürnstein
Several readers have asked me about our ship, the Ms Joy. Launched in 2016, she is shaped like a pencil, 443 feet long and 38 feet wide. Its draft is five feet, permitting it to navigate through shallow parts of the river. It also has the feature of being able to collapse canopies on the sun deck, as well as fold down radar and communication towers to clear low bridges. Two years ago, the Danube was so high from heavy rains and snow melt that no ship was able to clear the bridges – effectively canceling the cruise season. The power system is very sophisticated, enabling the ship to turn in place – well that is, as long as the river is wider than the ship’s length.
Ms Joy
Ms Joy accommodates a maximum of 130 passengers, on two decks plus the Sun Deck. The suites and staterooms are very comfortable and well designed to provide the maximum amount of space. The Panorama Lounge is the main gathering area – lectures, refreshments, and entertainment. The Compass Rose dining room can accommodate all guests, and are open seating for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. There is also a small, sparsely used, quaint, casual a la carte dining room located aft, which is open all day long. Surprise! It is located just next to our suite, so we feel like it’s our own private hang-out place.
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