The day after all that rain, the weather was beautiful as we wheeled our luggage to the canal for a water taxi to the train station. Such a great morning! We were sad to leave Venice but promised to return. Contrary to humorous references to Italian trains, our high-speed train to Florence was flawless: great train, comfortable accommodations, fast (150 mph), and on time. It reminded us of the Shinkansen trains in Japan. After a short taxi ride from the train station, we arrived at our home for the next four nights, a spacious, marble-floored flat. Our location is outstanding – overlooking the Arno river, about 200 yards from the famous Ponte Vecchio, and a five-minute walk from the Piazza Signoria, location of the outdoor David replica and the stage for many city events.
View of the Ponte Vecchio from our flat.
Roselie and Kelly enjoying an Arno River moment from our porch
This is not our first visit to Florence, which is one of our favorite cities, rich in history and culture. It is the birthplace of the Renaissance, home to masterpieces of art as well as architecture, and the cradle of today’s Italian language. Florence, with a population of about 400,000, was originally a Roman city designated as a settlement for Caesar’s retired soldiers, around 60 BC. It is the capital of the Tuscany region. The construction of the Duomo, the city’s biggest masterpiece, started at the end of the 13th century, but took several centuries to complete. The façade was not added until the end of the 19th century.
Overview of Florence
Despite the fact that Florence was a democracy in the 15th century, Cosimo de’ Midici, the founder of the Midici dynasty, started to assert behind-the-scene power by using his fortune from banking and his strategic foresight to control the city. The Midici dynasty controlled the city until well into the 18th century. They were the bankers to the popes, contributed money to influence the selection of the popes, and supported a large network of patronage. Their reach included the selection of two Midici family members as popes. They were generous sponsors of the arts, supporting DaVinci, Botticelli, and Michelangelo. The disparity in wealth with the general population, as well as their disposition, promoted them as difficult and aloof. Resented, yet feared. The family was forced into exile for a period, but returned in 1512. During their absence, a key figure emerged as a powerful diplomat: Machiavelli, considered the father of modern political theory. His book, The Prince, is all about ruling and the use of power. Is any of Machiavelli’s theory in play today in our presidential election drama?
As a side note, we are not seeing or hearing anything about the U.S. elections or any other news for that matter. It’s as if we are in a bubble. Tourists seem to outnumber the locals, especially since most of the Italians have left on holiday for the month of August. Visitors are here to see the sights, and escape the ‘real’ world – walking around with their selfie-sticks photographing everything, or their eyes focused on their smart phone, talking or texting. There are no English language stations available on TV, and newsstands seem to be almost non-existent. The few that are around offer very few papers. It could be that people are relying more on getting their news electronically rather than from papers. There is definitely a security awareness, with the occasional Hummer military vehicle being parked in key areas, along with military personal carrying machine guns. We are picking up U.S. news via our phones and iPads.
Upriver view from the center of the Ponte Vecchio
Our Segway outing.
Fountain of Neptune
Hercules and Cacus
The Rape of the Sabine Women
On our first morning, we walked over the Ponte Veccio (bridge) to meet our guide for a morning tour. Our first stop was at a Segway rental shop where we spent about 15 minutes learning how to drive the device. Great fun… even though I was a little shaky at first. Today’s ride was more of an orientation tour, with several stops to point out notable buildings or structures. The Segway is not a jump-on, jump-off device, so we didn’t go into any exhibits. Alex and Erin were much more excited about going as fast as they could, than sightseeing. The crowds, motor scooters, and cars presented some challenges, but we survived. Whew!
Basilica of Santa Croce
In the afternoon we walked to the Basilica of Santa Croce, the burial site of Galileo, Machiavelli, as well as the composer Rossini. Given that it was late in the day, the churches were closing. We did learn that once a year, the piazza in front of the church is covered with sand, to host a local soccer tournament.
Santa Maria Church
Santa Maria del Carmine
Ceiling of Santa Maria del Carmine
Mary holding Jesus after the crucifixion
The following morning we visited the Diboboli Gardens (considered a museum) which is the home of the Florence Opera house. The heat and humidity encouraged us to dash from one shady spot or path to the next. Along the way, we bumped into some fun. A statue (see the photo below) gave us a chuckle as we imagined Hilary as the woman. As we walked through the garden, the museum police force, dressed in uniforms, wearing white helmets and armed with whistles, was roaming throughout the grounds to make sure all rules were obeyed. All of a sudden one of them started aggressively blowing her whistle. We all looked each other to see who was the culprit…perhaps one the kids was walking on the grass or touching a statute, or we stepped on a piece of art. Nope! She dashed right by us. Well, it is hot and humid. So what does an Italian do when he’s hot? He takes off his shirt! She raced to the three culprits, continuing to blow her whistle and yelling at them to get their shirts back on. The guilty argued and suffered through a five-minute lecture about why they need put their shirts back on, and to button them. But officer, it’s HOT! Don’ wanna hear abou’ it, it’s a museum! Men don’t take their shirts off in a museum!
Diboboli Garden
Fun Statue: Hilary in November holding Donald’s head and ‘stuff’
View of Florence from the B Garden
Church San Lorenzo
Sculpture in Church San Lorenzo
After dinner, we walked back to our flat through the narrow streets, which were now filled with the beautiful sounds of someone singing one of Puccini’s arias. We followed the music until we emerged into the Piazza della Signoria – the one with the outdoor statue of David. Wow! It was filled with people, and a stage set up next to the statue of David. Hundreds of people sitting on the ground or standing to inch themselves closer to the stage. The orchestra and singers performed for more than two hours, with a broad mixture – from opera, to a Duke Ellington and Louis Armstrong medley. What a special and wonderful experience to end the day.
Concert in the Piazza della Signoria
End of a great day!
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