The afternoon tour was physically easier. Our guide, Fabian (yes, another, but different, Fabian), and his colleague picked us up with a couple of golf carts. While riding instead of walking between venues seemed genteel and somewhat decadent, we had not anticipated the shake-n-bake ride on uneven, cobble stone roads – tightened seat belts were mandatory.
Exploring Rome in a golf cart.
Trevi Fountain
Our first stop, not far from our home base, was the Trevi Fountain. The fountain marks the confluence of three roads. While the fountain of today is very dramatic and a tourist mecca, it was originally the end point of the Aqua Virgo aqueduct built-in 19 BC to deliver fresh water to the city. A feat they accomplished without the use of laser based survey instruments. It is a marvel, even by today’s standards. People would fetch water from the cistern for their homes and travelers, arriving on the three roads, would water their horses and replenish their water supplies. The Aqua Virgo was just one of fourteen aqueducts built, beginning in 140 BC. The source of the Aqua Virgo is a pure water spring about 13 miles from the city, initially pointed out to a legion of thirsty soldiers by – you guessed it – a virgin.
Beautiful with all the individual fountains.
The fountain we know today wasn’t conceived until the 17th century, when Pope Urban VIII decided to leave his mark by building a far more imposing edifice. After several starts and stops, design collaborations and adjustments, it was finally completed in 1762. What makes the design especially interesting is the complexity of figuring out the number, the locations, and the size of each orifice, to match the volume and water pressure of the free-flowing water coming in from the aqueduct. The fountain is truly a work of art. The city just reopened the fountain last November after a major clean-up and restoration. It is customary to stand with your back to the fountain and toss a coin with your right arm, over your left shoulder, into the fountain – a wish to return to Rome, to find love, or to find happiness….whatever you chose. The coins are collected daily and used to provide food to the needy.
We’re coming back!
We’re coming back – twice!
Back into our bucking golf carts, we proceeded to Villa Borghese, which is now a beautiful city park. We didn’t spend much time in the park, but rather drove through the grounds, which gave us welcome shade and a reprieve from the stinging afternoon sun. As we left, we did stop at a vista point, giving us a panoptic view of the city, with the Tiber River snaking through the middle, and the Spanish Steps to our left.
View from Villa Borghese
Delicious water in Villa Borghese – and it’s FREE!
Water clock built-in 1867 by a Dominican priest-and it works!
Descending down the hill, we drove to the Pantheon. Buildings occupied this site from before Christ, but the current structure was dedicated in the second century. The central area is circular with columns supporting the world’s largest concrete dome. The dome is unusual, in that at its center, is an opening, with a view of the overhead sky. The diameter of the room and its height are the same: about 142 ft. The building’s use has evolved many times over the centuries, but was primarily used as a religious site, with religions changing with the times – from pagan gods to Christianity. It also serves as a tomb for notables such as Raphael – he asked to be entombed here.
The Pantheon-early morning without the crowds.
Working the crowd to get into the Pantheon.
Massive interior or the Pantheon.
Concrete Pantheon dome.
Raphael’s tomb.
After leaving the Pantheon, we visited the Basilica Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, located just behind the Pantheon. It is the home to Michelangelo’s Cristo della Minerva, completed in 1521, depicting Christ carrying the cross, after his rising.
Basilica Santa Maria Sopra Minerva
Michelangelo’s Cristo della Minerva
Leaving the basilica, it was time to refresh with the ‘best gelato in Rome’ from a vendor next to the Pantheon (every one of our guides had his own very-best). Refreshed, our next stop was the Jewish Ghetto, located on the other side of the Tiber River. The Jews’ presence in Rome dates back to a couple of centuries BC. The walled ghetto was established in 1555, when the Roman government (Catholic) imposed many restrictions on the Jews and required them to live in the compound, which was locked each night. During WWII, Rome’s Jews were initially protected from deportation to concentration camps by paying a large ransom in gold. Despite the payment, it didn’t satisfy the Nazi’s for long before they invaded the compound in 1943 and began deporting close to 2,000 people. As we walked through the neighborhood, we spotted brass tiles on the sidewalk in front of each doorway, listing the names of the individuals and date of deportation from their home – so none of us would forget. It’s very effective. On an explanatory sign, let us know that only 16 people had survived the camps.
One entrance to Rome’s Jewish Ghetto.
New Synagogue in Jewish Ghetto
A different ‘feel’ inside the ghetto.
Just in case….a reminder.
The area definitely has a different feel, a different energy. To this date, only Jews live here and security remains vigilant with manned pill boxes near some of the main access roads. The relatively new Synagogue is heavily fenced in. Visiting hours were restricted to a few, very short times – we didn’t get in. While looking for best restaurant in Rome, Kelly discovered located in this ghetto. We found it and checked out its menu, which was quite different from anything we had seen on this trip, including fried Jewish artichokes. We returned later in the evening and experienced one of the best meals we’ve had.
But first, we wanted to visit the Jesuit church of St. Ignatius. Bill had attended and graduated from St. Ignatius in San Francisco, so it seemed appropriate to visit the ‘mother ship’ of the order. It is a beautiful church and embraces the intellectual pursuit of the order. In one section there was a modern, metal sculpture of an apple three.
Basilica St. Ignatius
Apple Tree – “Tree of Knowledge”.
“…Although it is true that we Christians have at times incorrectly interpreted the Scriptures, nowadays we must forcefully reject the notion that our being created in God’s image and given dominion of the earth justifies absolute domination over other creatures.” (Enciclica Laudato si’ n 67)
With that noted, it’s time to pack and get organized for the next day’s early dash to the airport to fly home. We are not ready to leave – making this the best time to actually leave, with sights unseen and experiences not yet had, guaranteeing that we will return! Our celebratory dinner was at the Cybo Osteria, kicked off with an Aperol Spritz and ending with a Lemoncello. A fitting and fantastic conclusion. Tomorrow, it’s back to airline food and the ‘real’ world.
Reflecting on our two-week stay, we have had a fantastic time, and have several take-aways:
Every place was kept very clean – despite the large number of visitors and travelers.
Using Airbnb was an excellent alternative to staying in hotels. It is now our preferred accommodation.
Hiring a private guide (from Guides by Locals) for 2-3 hours was one of the best decisions we made. Every guide brought a focus and knowledge that would have been very difficult to get on our own. The tours served as an introduction and orientation.
Security, while visible, was not an issue. Armed, military personnel were at the entrances of most government buildings, as well areas of heavy tourist traffic including popular piazzas. Every major tourist site (museums, the Vatican, and some churches) had airport-like security checks. There was an alert that ISIS had specifically targeted the Colosseum – so extra security was apparent.
The economy seemed to be healthy and people happy and welcoming. Some tourists and tourist groups certainly tested them on keeping a positive attitude.
There appeared to be no observable issues around immigration. Most street vendors hawking art, selfie-sticks, bottled water, etc. appeared to be immigrants.
Politically, while things have improved after their Trump-like Prime Minister Berlusconi was ousted, people feel that corruption continues to be an issue.
There was not much interest in the U.S. election other than acknowledgement and sympathy that we’re being subjected to our own, Made In America, Berlusconi-ism. There is concern and a question: will he be elected? They hope we may learn from their experience.
Our guides were well coached to stay away from political topics. However we were able to tease out the fact that almost none of their clients, appeared to be Trump supporters.
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