Here are my thoughts:
Cambodia is extremely poor with very little infrastructure or things that we would consider essential for a minimal quality of life. Only 6% of the population is over 40 years old. While it is a communist government, there is a clear elite cadre that is very corrupt and is taking advantage of the populace and the nation’s resources. Pollution is extreme, both in the air and on the ground – it is everywhere and unsightly. The many problems are so large that I can’t imagine a recovery in less than 2 or 3 generations. Yet people seem optimistic, and feel that things are much improved – taking small steps to advance their quality of life.
Everyone seems to have a story on how he or she survived the Khmer Rouge days and how he, she or their families were impacted. Many admit being [and I believe most were] part of the Khmer Rouge. Who can tell what atrocities each may have committed or suffered? On one hand they are honest and acknowledge what happened, making no attempt to hide it. On the other hand, they don’t want to talk about it; they consign it to the past and prefer not to bring it up front. So they talk about the future – helping each other, caring for each other, loving each other.
Vietnam is very much at the other end of the spectrum. You can feel the energy in the air. They are smart, hard-working, survivors, and proud of what their country has accomplished. But the country is an oxymoron. Beneath the veneer of bright lights, new buildings, millions of mopeds, and smiles, I sense turmoil – the feeling that the country is busy redefining itself. It is communist, but has clearly adopted parts of capitalism – because it works and it makes people happy. The North is more conservative, rigid, and slower to move. It is more polluted and has less infrastructure. The North still carries an attitude of having conquered the South. As an offset, everyone recites the mantra that ‘we are one, and we love each other’. There is a veiled class structure. The top paying jobs are government jobs. One of the best, highest-paying jobs is that of a policeman. He can stop someone for a driving violation, ticket them, and collect the money on the spot – and of course keep the money. If someone cannot pay this ‘fine’, the police will confiscated their scooter, which would cost at least two days of time and wages to recover. Only 10% of the people are members of the communist party, yet there are twice as many communist party flags flying, than Vietnamese flags. No one [or family] who was associated with the South Vietnamese government or military, the Americans, or the French, is allowed to hold a government job. Despite all the marketing to make everything more attractive to past enemies, you see ever-present reminders of the atrocities the Americans and its allies committed on the people of Vietnam.
What is worrisome is that Vietnam considers China a threat – history repeats. They are on the path of a large military buildup. Military service is now mandatory for every male. Until last year, the weapons they had access to were limited to what China and Russia were willing to sell them. Lifting our weapons embargo last year has opened up a virtual supermarket of weapons.
Everyone has been very friendly, gentle, helpful and accommodating. It does raise the question of how do they really feel about us. Do they feel and believe what they say to us, or are they saying it because they feel that is what we want to hear?
As I learn and meld the events over the past 60 years in this geographic crucible, I can’t find a more succinct demonstration of humanity’s duality. The duality of man to destroy itself: “In order for peace, you must prepare and fight war”. We learned about unimaginable atrocities committed by one human on another human, sometimes a family member, yet turn around and claim to love all people. We can see the behavior, we don’t understand it, we are saddened by it, we are appalled by it, we try to rationalize it, and we assign cause and blame. Some seek relief by teasing out humankind’s ‘higher self’, or by looking for answers from a ‘higher being’ – interesting how we focus on ‘higher’! Is it because deep down we acknowledge this duality, which makes us capable and willing to perform these atrocities? Mostly we try not to think about it. Some try to understand by asking the question “why me/us” – which perpetuates further suffering. Alternatively we may search for solutions from religion – which at its best is imaginary and speculative. Examples of duality are constantly visible, and repeat again and again, without end in sight, and apparently without so-called ‘evolution’. Is this the time to accept that duality is intrinsic to every human? That it’s part of our DNA? Look around, read the news…how many examples of duality is evident in today’s world? If we do accept it, what is next?
While Cambodia may be a 3rd world country in development, it may lead on the humanity scale. The country is 70-80% Buddhist. Our guides explains that this means most people are 70-80% Buddhist and follow an other religion for the remaining 30-20%. Buddhism is a ‘way of life’ and does not involve the worship of any thing or anyone….including Buddha. Buddhism explains and accepts injustice and inequality and suggests a practice of living that leads to true happiness. The Cambodians’ practice of Buddhism gives them the tools to accept the past and to build the future.
After having seen and experienced Cambodia, we were deeply moved by the impact we had when we brought rice and other supplies to a small village of very poor people. It felt great to make a difference. So the eight of us [Barbara, Mel, Donna, Sue, Carolyn, Ned, Roselie, and I] have decided that periodically we would send $100 to our guide, Samnop, to buy and distribute food to this village.
Second, we learned the families did not have a source of clean drinking water. They do not have piped water, power, or sewage. By drilling a well and installing a water pump, the whole village would benefit. We will do this.
Third, when we visited the village, we met a young boy with an eye condition [see photo] that we felt could be corrected. His name is A Lave [Misdirection Looking] and is 6 1/2 years old. His family cannot afford to pay for the necessary procedure. They found a doctor from Doctors Without Borders who is willing to perform the surgery, at no cost. However the family must pay for travel, food, and room and supplies at the clinic. We’ve decided to contribute the monies.
Our final learning was ‘bumping’ into Buddhism as we met and talked with people. Discovering that it as a way of life [not worship], resonated with many of our values and beliefs. Several of us will be looking into Buddhism at a more detailed level – not necessarily as an alternative, but perhaps in addition, to whatever religious preference each might have.
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