The shoreline doted with homes near the Tagaung village.
As we approached the shore near our destination for the day, the Tagaung village, we could hear the high volume blasting of contemporary Myanmar music, which we learned is the sure sign of a party going on. It was a wedding! After navigating across another Rose Garden (as we’ve dubbed these patches of trash), we discovered a crowd of happy, colorfully dressed villagers entering and leaving a crowded central hall. Inside, the groom and bride were on stage to greet guests and pose for pictures. Tables were set up with a variety of food dishes (I couldn’t recognize any of them). The bride’s mother and father greeted and pushed me towards the new couple so I could get a good photo, and invited me to sit down and eat. Tin, out of the corner of my eye, was shaking his head vigorously….nooooo, don’t eat the fare. So I gracefully declined by taking their photo and showing them the picture – they smile, and pat me on my back as I bowed out.
Ahhh, another Rose Garden to navigate!
The happy wedding couple.
The reception line of the bride’s Aunties.
The bride’s sister and her family.
Joyous reception with lots of food and goodies.
Roselie, our other guide “Omar Sharif”, and Cristina outside the wedding hall.
Shrine of Bo Bo Gyi nat.
Leaving the wedding, we headed to the main reason we stopped here, the shrine of Bo Bo Gyi, a famous Nat and guardian of the village. As I mentioned in an earlier posting, the worship of spirits/Nats, has its source in animism and pre-dates Buddhism and continues to co-exist with it. Most of these are spirits of those that have died a violent death. These spirits are appeased out of fear, in the hope of punishment or negative consequences. The Bo Bo Gyi here is considered to be the most powerful of the 37 named Nats. As we entered the canopied stage displaying the golden head of the Nat, with music blaring, we were greeting by an older woman (70-ish) in a gilded costume, dancing, drinking, and smoking to the music to the entertainment of the guests. We learned that she is an intermediary for the Nat. She was channeling the Nat’s powers to the wedding to ensure a happy marriage while using the occasion to encourage donations to the Nat. A young woman stepped up and slipped a monetary bill into her headband to encourage her performance. I guess that tradition is not restricted to strip clubs. I opted to make a small contribution to the donation box at the entrance. I don’t know what she was drinking from that grimy bottle, nor what she was smoking, but she was having great fun.
The Nat’s intermediary celebrating the wedding.
Your local smart phone repair shop!
We left to explore the little village, which was lined with shops. I really enjoyed a little electronics equipment and repair store that offered what looked more like junk than working gear. You want an old vacuum tube TV… it’s here. Want a 1940’s vintage power amplifier/mixer…you got it. A young man was sitting at the ‘repair bench’ out front, attempting to repair a customer’s Samsung phone. After he removed the case, he started probing with a sharp object. I cringed! I couldn’t watch or stick around to see if he got it to work again.
The friendly police state.
As I was walking back through town to our boat, I noticed a compound identified as the Myanmar Police Force Center, home of the previously feared enforcers. Using newly acquired marketing skills, they are trying to soften their image with an added sign –“May I Help You?” Next they might give away stuffed teddy bears to kids who visit…who knows?
Moving up river towards T village.
A harvest of bamboo poles rafted together and ready to float downstream to the market.
We spent the rest of the afternoon continuing our journey upstream, watching the scenery and life along the river. It was time to go native! The ship’s staff gave each of us a Longie or Sarong to wear to dinner this evening. It’s basically a woven cloth that is sown together to form a large cylinder, extending from the waist down to the feet. The process is to step into the cylinder, pull it up to the waist, and then fold and tie it such that it doesn’t fall off. The ship’s staff, including our guides, wear these as normal, everyday wardrobe, much as we would slacks. Tying it was fairly easy, and surprisingly, it didn’t fall off. However, most of us played it safe, by wearing undergarments and even shorts underneath the Longie….just in case!
Teaching me how to tie the longie so it won’t fall down.
Modeling a properly tied longie.
Next up, we learned about Thanatkha. It is a yellow or white cosmetic paste traditionally worn by Myanmar women and girls, and some boys and men, mainly on their face, but it may be applied elsewhere. The paste is made by rubbing the bark from a Thanaka tree, together with a few drops of water, on a sand stone to create a paste. The paste is applied by hand or brush to form various shapes and patterns on the face or other parts of the body. The most common form is a circular patch on each cheek, sometimes in the form of stripes made by fingers, or more elaborate patterns in the shape of a leaf made with a brush, often highlighting the bridge of the nose with it at the same time. Beyond cosmetic beauty, it protects the skin from the sun, provides a cooling sensation, reduces acne, and promotes a smooth skin.
Start with piece of Thanatkha tree, some water, rub on the sandstone –> Paste!
Jean and Tom modeling the final, stylish artwork!
It was fun dressing in our new garb for dinner with some displaying their face art. I’m happy to report that there were no accidental slips of the longies…but several had to be re-tied along the way. The crew put on a show of ethnic dress and dances – very beautiful. Lights out!
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