Underway, we started our 100-mile leisurely cruise to Mandalay, with a short stop at Thabeitkyin along the way to see elephants deep in a teak forest. We visited the elephant ‘vacation and rest’ camp for working elephants. The spokesman for the camp told us that elephants must rotate between their job of logging teak, and rest breaks. Since the government had declared a hiatus of teak logging for two years, the number of resting animals is probably at a max.
A little spa treatment in the river – delightful – they love it.
Time to get out. Can’t spend the whole day in the water – don’t want pruned skin!
The elephant camp was different from the one we visited in Thailand. It was obvious that these animals had a different life, and were managed by a team of handlers, rather than just one individual. There were the mahouts in blue uniforms, another group in khaki uniforms that formed an interface line between visitors and the elephants, and several guys in white uniforms that represented the Ministry of Interior, which ultimately owns and manages the working elephants. A hierarchy of control, each issuing orders to the next, lower level. Some of the khaki guys clearly had no affection for the elephants – yelling at them, slapping them, striking them with their sticks, and ordering the mounted mahouts about – very different from Thailand.
Uniform identifies them spa staff who take care of elephants.
Mahout demonstrates how the elephants pick up a teak log.
Demonstration on how elephants carry, or drag teak logs.
They gave us a demonstration how the elephants work with the teak logs. Amazing strength and balance. One other thing was different from what we learned in Thailand. Each of the elephants had a harness across its back, attaching a structure or saddle to support baskets in which to carry goods or people. Their spine and muscular structure in that area is weak so weight will cause pain and permanent damage. When I asked one of the Ministry of Interior officials about this, he walked away… probably didn’t speak English. We also took the opportunity to feed them fresh fruit treats, and show them some ‘love.’ Very sweet animals.
Roselie giving them a fruit treat.
Helen handing out some ‘Love”.
Each elephant wears a handmade, wooden bell which has a unique tone. When they are left free to roam the forest, its mahout listens for the sound of his elephant’s bell to locate her. As we all know, elephants are very intelligent. One of the handlers described an incident wherein his elephant decided that she didn’t want to be found because she didn’t want to work. So she stuffed the bell with clippings and dirt to quiet it. Several hours later, he finally found her.
All lined up to meet today’s guests.
After leaving the elephant camp, the original plan was to continue on and visit Mogok. The town of Mogok has a population of about 150,000 and sits in the ‘Valley of Rubies.’ More than 90% of the worldwide ruby and sapphire supply comes from Myanmar. The mines and processing plants are all owned by the Myanmar military. Unfortunately, this stop was cancelled. While they never gave us an explicit explanation for the change in plans, I believe they updated their security assessment and decided against the visit. Access is very limited and requires special permits as well as authorized escorts. Too bad, since it is reported to be quite beautiful.
No seat belt required. Just a ride back to town.
So, back into our minivans, as several locals hitched a ride by sitting in the rack on the roof, or standing on the rear bumper – whatever works, to our ship and on to Mandalay.
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