Yesterday was quite a day, securing several FIRSTS. To summarize, we have been further south (closer to the South Pole) than any other ship this year; it is the first Hurtigruten ship to EVER travel this far south, and the nearest other vessel was about 1,000 km away. I did go out around midnight to see if I could spot the Southern lights. No luck! It was overcast, and the sky was not completely dark.
Today’s goal was to approach the ice sheet. While still away from our target, we encountered an ice field of bergies and growlers, forcing us to standoff. Proceeding into the ice field, floating ice became denser as we went along. I looked over our port side veranda and could see the chunks of ice against our hull.
It doesn’t take much imagination to envision these ice chunks coalescing. Well, we never stopped moving. The captain decided not to proceed further. It would be at least another kilometer to get closer. Instead, we began to back out. Why take any risks? We continued to back up until we were just outside the ice field border, which looked like a riptide line.
We held our position and launched the Zodiacs using our drive propellers and side thrusters. Today’s outing would be an hour of motoring the surrounding ice fields. Each launch consisted of two boats for safety reasons (12 guests each). The outside and water temperatures were zero degrees centigrade, with overcast skies and a ten mph wind. We skimmed along the ice line, dipping in at intervals to be surrounded by growlers and close to a bergie. We spotted something red about 500 meters ahead.
Proceeding toward it, we discovered a one-meter diameter red buoy. It was not tied to anything, so who knows how it got there. Given the shape, it was not a navigation aid but a marker that had broken free. We retreated out of the field once our partner boat hauled it aboard. We spotted another further away but decided not to risk getting deeper into the floating ice. Since leaving our ship, the cloud cover had fallen, or a fog bank had closed in, for our boat was nowhere in sight. Moving in the general direction of the ship, we soon saw the ghost-like shape emerging from the cover.
Back on board and cold to the bones, it was time to celebrate and warm with a glass of Brandy!
As the evening set, with all hands back on board, we started our way back north by northeast. The travel through the night was slower than expected because of strong headwinds and rough seas. By morning, it became apparent that the initially planned landing would not happen. Given weather conditions, the landing site would not be safe. As an alternative, the team decided to land at Shoehorn Island, which had a cove protected from adverse conditions. It is a small island, about 12 kilometers by 6 kilometers.
The on-board day allowed us to attend various lectures. Some items of interest:
Antarctica was part of a supercontinent, Gondwana, about 175 million years ago. Parts of what is now Antarctica were located at the equator and the northern hemisphere.
The shifting plates broke Gondwana into several continents, including Antarctica, about 25 million years ago. The opening of Drake’s Passage with its currents further separated the continent from South America, ultimately ending up where it is today.
No animals live in Antarctica. The non-flying birds, the penguins, come to Antarctica solely for breeding. They head north before winter sets in, and the young have learned to swim.
We arrived at Shoehorn Island late afternoon and spotted several buildings on the rise. It is the British research station Base Y, active during the 1950s. It is fully intact and has been named a historic site, but it is not open to visitors. Wildlife is minimal with some seals but no penguins. Given that our landing window was 8 PM, I decided to pass on the chance to go ashore.
Later that evening, the ship set sail and headed north. It was much slower than expected due to gale level headwinds and rough seas. We were rockin’ n rollin’ throughout the night. To make up time, they considered going back through the Gullet channel. This was too risky. Passage would be at night, and the fear was that ice would clog up the outlet of the narrow waterway, which would require us to backtrack. The chosen alternative was to take the eastern ocean side of the islands. This would slow us down further, putting us at risk of reaching a planned landing at Charcot Island. The 55-by-45-kilometer island was discovered in 1910 by the French Antarctic explorer Charcot.
As the day unfolded, it became clear that we would not make Charcot Island. Alternatively, the captain contacted the Ukrainian research station, Vernadsky Research Station, on Galindez Island. The research facility was initially constructed as British Base F but was sold to Ukraine in 1996 (for $1) after Britain decided to deactivate the site. The Ukrainians continue to research ozone, meteorology, and biology.
Broadcasting to the ship, the Captain ‘sold’ our visiting this base because it was an active station, so the scientists would show us around. They would love our company, and most importantly, they have a bar! It’s hard to turn down this type of invitation…On second thought, something more devious may be at play here.
Walking around the ship this morning after the announcement that the landing had been canceled, my acute antennae and limited understanding of German picked up a lot of animated grousing from some, mainly the German group. They seem to have taken issue with having taken time to go to the southernmost point, rather than to maximize the landings. I’m confident the Captain picked up this energy. Could it be that the spirit of Shackleton has incarnated our captain? Shackleton is universally acknowledged to possess skills to keep his team positive and motivated and remove any friction at play. Let’s connect the dots: grumbling people …propose another landing site…with a bar…that has beer and vodka. Prosit! Maybe some singing? Can you hear it?
Ein Prosit, ein Prosit
Der Gemütlichkeit
Ein Prosit, ein Prosit
Der Gemütlichkeit
OANS! ZWOA! DREI! G’SUFFA!
(repeat continuously while drinking a stein of beer)
Just saying!
After shuttling over to the station, several residents graciously gave us a tour, including the research and testing rooms, galley, workout room, surgery, and the common area with a bar to hang out and watch movies or play games. We didn’t see their sleeping accommodations. It is hard to imagine how the 12 people in this small space could live and work for a year. The cook and mechanic who tended the bar are scheduled to rotate out the day after tomorrow.
Well, I called it wrong. The beverage of choice is vodka, brewed on-site, not beer. Several in our party opted to buy a shot…, but I decided to pass. This is the first working station that I’ve visited. In exchange for hosting us, the ship delivered fresh vegetables and fruit.
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