Today was a BIG day – a marathon of activities, dashing between venues, aided by our superfast running shoes! First up was the ancient capital of Myanmar, the town of Ava (now known as Inwa). It served as the capital, on and off for 500 years but was permanently moved to Amarapur following a devastating series of earthquakes in 1839. Only a few crumbling remains are a testimony of the grand, ancient capital. Today the city is primarily a tourist day-trip destination.
A rough ride around Inwa.
Our ride. Ugh!
Coming ashore, we could see a few remains of the fort built to defend the city from a British attack from the water during the third British-Burmese war. Horse drawn carts were assembled, colorfully decorated, waiting to show us around town to see the key sights. At first glance, this looked to be a fun experience. I spotted what looked like the most handsome ride, and headed straight for it. As I tried to get into the cart from the back entrance, my height and weight (plus Roselie) immediately cause a flurry of waving arms and shouting – shouting at the horse and his helpers. I believe they feared we were going to pivot up the front of the carriage and lift the harnessed horse off the ground. Helpers immediately put their weight on the cart shafts, while our driver sweet-talked the horse to hold still and assured him that everything would be all right. Boarded, we settled down on the uncomfortable bench seats and discovered that I was must be taller than their typical passenger. My head almost touched the canopy. The fringe cut my view, forcing me to bend way down to look out and see the sights.
As we headed out, we quickly realized this was not going to be a pleasant ride. None of the roads were paved and all were pocked with ruts, rocks, and mud holes. I tried to find something to hold onto and brace myself – where is the seat belt when I need one? The driver turned around to tell us (with a smile of betel chewing stained teeth) that it would get quite bumpy further down the road. Oh great! What are we experiencing now?
It got worse. And a betel amped driver yet! I braced my legs against the sides of the cart, and grabbed whatever solid support I could hold onto. My shirt snagged some sharp object on the side of this ragged cart, and readily tore. It became all about hanging on for dear life. The guy also liked to be at the front the group, so he ordered and hit our horse to go faster. This was not a photo opportunity. My camera was pinned to the floor with my feet to prevent damage. I believe he took some fiendish pleasure in jostling us around. The verdict is in: this is the worst ride I’ve ever experienced! Similar to riding in a small boat at high speeds on choppy seas – Whack! Bam! Slam! Did it break up… yet? How much further before we can get out?
What is left of the 90 foot watch tower on the palace grounds…leaning!
We rode by the remaining foundations of the original palace, mostly overrun by vegetation and plots of crops. We stopped at the Watch Tower originally part of the palace complex. The 1839 earthquakes destroyed the top of the tower, which was originally 90 feet tall and caused the whole tower to lean. It was unsafe to enter. We returned to our chariot of pain to find our driver busily hammering the tread back onto one of the wheels.
Maha Aung Mye Nom monastery.
Striking, Myanmar architecture.
Thankfully it was just a short ride to our next destination, the Maha Aung Mye Bom Monastery. It also suffered severe damage during the earthquake, but was repaired in 1873. It remains an excellent example of Myanmar architecture. It is not an active monastery and is mostly empty, save a couple of Buddha statues. The number of historically significant buildings in this country far outpaces the resources, both financial and skill wise, required to restore or maintain them. A challenging situation similar to what we found in Ireland earlier in the year – way too many castles, churches, and buildings to restore and maintain. It’s a matter of prioritizing what has the greatest impact.
The Bagaya Monastery, our next and final stop, is the jewel attraction in Inwa and remains an active monastery. Built in 1838, it is made entirely of teak and includes the support of 267 teak posts, some as high as 60 feet and 9 feet in circumference. It provides housing and schooling for local children. A monk was teaching a couple of novices in one section of the complex. Intricate carvings and reliefs decorate the entire building.
Bagaya Monastery built entirely with teak wood.
Built entirely with teak, using 267 pillars.
An active monastery, with a monk teaching two novices, who looked a little sleepy.
Following lunch on board, we headed out again to visit a silversmith in Sagaing, to see the centuries-old techniques to create works of art. We continue on to the hilltop Soon Oo Pon Nya Shin pagoda. Sagaing is located about 12 miles downstream, opposite to Mandalay on the Ayeyarwady river, and is nestled in the numerous hills and valleys. Pagodas and monasteries dot the whole area. The town, with about 70 thousand people, is generally considered an extension of Mandalay. During the 888 revolution, more than 300 civilians were massacred here. Today it is a popular tourist destination. The Soon Oo Pon Nya Shin pagoda is a sprawling campus with multiple temples, stupas, and assembly areas. It also affords a beautiful view of the immediate area, the river, and Mandalay across the river.
It was time to hurry back to our bus and dash to the large, freshwater lake of Taungthaman, located in the Mandalay township of Amarapura (historic capital of Myanmar). Our goal is to see the sunset over the lake and its famous U Bein bridge. As we’re driving down the mountain from the pagoda, the street was lined with hundreds of delighted children in monk or nun outfits running, playing, and goofing off along the way back to their dormitories. The monastery schools had just let out for the day. I guess kids, throughout the world, are very similar.
U Been bridge.
Nourishment on our way to our lake boat excursion.
As we approached the lake, it was very crowded. The weather and the sky promised a delightful sunset, so everyone came out to see it. No time to dawdle as the sun began to drop. Our staff had set up a table to provide us with a glass of champagne and a tea sandwich to take with us, as they urged us towards the little wooden boats. In the background we spotted the U Bein bridge. Built in 1850, it is the world’s longest teak footbridge and forms a gentle three-quarter mile long arc across Taungthaman Lake. After walking an array of shaky planks, each couple boarded a wooden, flat bottomed boat with a boatman working his oars to get us in position. We moved out into the lake just as the sun was beginning to set. The water was calm. The wind was absent. The sky was clear. The bridge filled our horizon like a paper-cut silhouette overlaid on the sunset sky, with little sticks moving across its top. Spectacular! Difficult to photograph, to capture it completely, impossible to describe it effectively. It touches your soul! Navigating between the bridges piers, we make it to the other side with a view of a small finger of land protruding into the lake, and a dead tree seemingly planted in the water. A newly married couple was posing for their wedding portraits. All of it a black silhouette. The only color was the sunset sky. Wow! Those must be some extraordinary wedding photos.
Beautiful sunset behind the U Bein bridge.
Setting for beautiful a wedding portrait.
Returning to shore – is there room to go ashore?
While enjoying the moment, another boat carrying two staff members, quietly approached and offered to refill our champagne glasses. How special is that? Returning back to shore, dark had settled in. Tin helped us off our boat and was pleased that we enjoyed it. His village and home is just on the other side of the lake, where he lives with his wife, young son, and mother. He said that one of his family’s favorite things to do was to come here and walk across the bridge. His son loves walking on the rickety old bridge and dropping things from between the planks into the water. I asked him if his son loved going on the boats. “Oh! I and my family having never taken one of these boat rides. We cannot afford it. It is much too expensive.” He was not resentful, but delighted in our experience. It certainly put things in perspective.
Relaxing dinner, after a long day.
A delightful dance set by a local group. As a finale, they invited us on stage to participate in their dance.
To end our very active day, the staff prepared a delicious dinner on the top deck of our ship. The glow from the sunset at U Bein bridge stayed with us… perhaps enhanced by the glow from the champagne. The day’s finale was a traditional dance performance by a local group, –graceful, reflective, subtle, not raucous. An over-the-top day!
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