Make a Purposeful Change

“Who looks outside, dreams; who looks inside, awakes.” 

Carl Jung   

We began our sea days by emerging from the sheltered channel between Nelson and Robert islands in the Shetland Islands cluster, to experience the infamous Drake Passage yet again. Unlike the pond-like conditions we experienced a couple of weeks earlier on our way down to Antarctica, the seas were more in line with its punishing reputation as a challenge to any seafarer. It served up a rock’n’roll ride worthy of the Passage’s repute.  

South Shetland Islands

Confident that we had acquired sea-legs over the last couple of weeks, we started the day with a brisk 10,000 step walk on the ship’s oval, outdoor track. Stay in shape. Burn calories.

The rhythmic pitch and yaw, along with strong headwinds and near-freezing temperatures, gave us quite a challenge as we weaved our way around the track. Periodically, a roque wave would break the rhythm, causing the ship to shutter and thrust us against the handrails. Well, 10,000 steps were not going to happen. Given that we were chilled to the bone, it was time to warm up with a hot cup of coffee and enjoy a hearty breakfast. The dining room staff quickly came to our aid and carried our trays as we grabbed anything nearby to secure our balance.

Walking steps on the observation deck

The grey monochromatic scene of low clouds, waves, and white caps offered little to capture our interest. Perhaps a floating daydream, or thoughts of how things are going at home. It was an excellent day to stay in, taking advantage of the many lectures, the Antarctic themed movies, skill classes, or thoughtful discussions with our travel companions. As we returned to our cabin, the crew left an invitation from our Captain, Torry Sakkariassen, to join him on the ship’s bridge, for a first-hand view of the ship’s control center.

Until then, a lecture on the Secci Disk by Dr. Richard Kirby seemed most interesting. Dr. Richard Kirby is a marine scientist who has spent his career studying plankton. More specifically, Richard’s research interests lie in how climate change and humans (e.g., fishing, plastics, etc.) impact plankton and the food network it supports.

First, a few notes re phytoplankton (the plantlike community of plankton), which live in the photic zone (near the surface) of oceans and other water bodies, and can reach depths of up to 600 feet, depending on water temperature and amount of sunlight. These organisms range from 0.002 to 0.04 inches (a human hair is approximately 0.004 inches) in size. Phytoplankton accounts for more than 50% of Earth’s photosynthesis that assimilates carbon dioxide and releases oxygen. It is the foundation for the marine food chain, ultimately a food (e.g., fish, shrimp) source for humans. Phytoplankton depends on nutrients delivered by rivers, land erosion, and polar melt. Hence, the health of Phytoplankton serves as an excellent barometer of our planet’s health.

So how can we measure the amount of Phytoplankton in bodies of water? These organisms directly affect the turbidity or transparency of water. A simple scientific tool to measure turbidity is the Secchi disk. The Secchi disk, invented by Angelo Secchi in 1865, is a round, white or white/black disk attached to a lanyard. The freshwater disk is 8 inches in diameter, while the marine disk is 12 inches.

Secchi Disk

The disk is lowered slowly in the water until it is no longer visible. The depth wherein it is no longer visible is the Secchi Depth. 

Measuring the Secchi Depth

Measuring the amount of Phytoplankton instantly in time and place may be easy, but attempts to draw overall conclusions are very difficult and controversial. The number of variables is vast: atmospheric and marine temperatures, amount of sunlight, time of year, month, day, and the number of nutrients and land-based pollution (herbicides, pesticides, fertilizers) and melting rate of polar icecaps, just to name a few. Narrow studies such as those conducted for Lake Tahoe and Lake Erie have shown the variables’ impact. Still, a lack of useful historic data thwarts attempts to agree on the long term trend. According to Dr. Kirby, there is a ‘general’ agreement that the world’s Phytoplankton has declined by 40% over the last 50 years. Alarm Bell! Something we should take to heart when looking at the survival of homo sapiens. So what can we do? For one, we can participate by measuring the Secci depth whenever we venture out on a boat.

Public science is Dr. Kirby’s passion. He started the Secci Disk study in 2013 to measure the Phytoplankton in Earth’s oceans. Any seafarer may participate and contribute measurements to the research, which is ongoing without an end date or geographic boundaries. You can download the smartphone application, Secchi, which provides instructions, storage of measurements, and automatic submittal when an internet link is available. All you need is a Secchi disk, a line, and a moment to measure while on water. We measured the Secci Depth every time we stopped and launched our science boat.

After the lecture, I had an opportunity to sit down with him and ask questions. Given the decline of Phytoplankton, what can we do to stop further deterioration and hopefully reverse it? Addressing global warming is on top of his list. His actions list includes reducing pollution from chemicals in our land use, reducing microplastics, eliminating population growth, changing to plant-based food diets. As humans consume other species (cattle, chicken, snake, rodent, etc.), it increases the probability of pandemic type viruses jumping to humans. Pandemics carry the potential to dramatically affecting the world population, not dissimilar to the Black Plague in the Fourteenth Century. That pandemic killed approximately 50% of Europe’s population and a quarter of the world’s population. A worldwide epidemic is not a desirable alternative to limiting or reducing population. Today we are experiencing the Corona Virus Pandemic. What will be the ultimate impact? How many people will die worldwide? Our scientific and health care acumen will surely check the effect to avoid a Black Plague scale scourge. But, how many more pandemics are just around the corner? What can I do to ensure a healthy Earth for our children and grandchildren? In terms of what I can do to help the environment – move to a plant-based diet, reduce consumption, reduce my carbon footprint.

Taking a break from this weighty topic, it was time to head for the ship’s bridge to meet our captain, Torry Sakkariassen. While he refers to himself as the ‘Ship’s Driver,’ the female passengers referred to him as Captain Marvelous. All of them want to make sure they could have a fun photograph with him.

Roselie with the captain

Sue with Captain Marvelous

There were only six guests in our group, so we could walk around, talk to the captain, but “Don’t touch anything!” The bridge looks just like what we’ve seen in the movie Star Trek’s USS Enterprise. It has a raised, central seat for the captain, just like Captain Kirk’s. From this seat, he has complete control of the ship and can monitor all systems. There is no steering wheel, nor helmsperson. The ship is either under his direct control or on autopilot. His helm is a joystick to his armrest’s right, which he uses to steer the boat and adjust the speed.

Exploring the Bridge

Traditional anchoring requires a ship to drop its ‘hook,’ considering a complex set of parameters such as how much chain to let out, the depth, and the type of bottom to set the anchor. The ship would need room to swing around the anchor point as currents and the winds change. The swing circle would need to be of sufficient diameter and to be free of submerged hazards. It is no longer the case in our next-generation ship. Once the captain decides the place and orientation to anchor, he merely hits a button. The boat will use GPS to stay fixed at this location and orientation.

Location of ship’s drives

Drive propeller

How does it stay in place? The two Azipull thrusters that drive the ship can each independently rotate 360 degrees. Therefore the ship has no need for a rudder. The computing system uses the main thrusters and two side thrusters, which are always engaged, to hold the ship’s position within 30 feet. OK, enough of this nerdy stuff.

It was time to return to the observation deck, check out the scenery…nothing has changed…the same grey portrait. It was time to enjoy a glass of wine and exchange news on what was happening in our country and the world. We felt very fortunate to have this window of opportunity to experience the Antarctic, which by the way, has no Corona Virus. It was also a moment to reflect on how we live life, learning, and dipping into philosophy to examine our purpose. It was a quiet, thoughtful discussion in a salon setting…visions of a Gertrude Stein-like gathering in her Paris home come to mind. It was a lovely day of looking inside, reviewing our purpose, and imagining changes each of us can each make.

Tomorrow: Falklands, here we come!