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Writer's pictureAndre Schwager

Lassen Peak Sleeps Again

August 12-13, 2015

After breaking camp at Lake Tahoe, Brent, Roselie and I headed North on the first of four legs to Glacier National Park. Our first stop was in Lassen Volcanic National Park.  It is a day’s travel away, and more important,  we had never been there before.  It is located in Northern California, East of Redding and Redbluff. We did not have high expectations, and assumed it would be similar to Craters of the Moon National Monument in Idaho – desolate, with few plants and plenty of basalt rocks.


Lassen Peak

Lassen Peak


Wrong! What a fantastic find! The park is large, heavily forested, with many lakes and streams. Our camp at 6,000 feet elevation is located next to Manzanita Lake.  A gorgeous setting.

Lassen Peak was created about 27,000 years ago by lava extruding upwards. It was named after Peter Lassen who acquired a Spanish Land Grant in 1844 and subsequently built a town to provide immigrants with supplies and directions to get over Lassen’s Trail – the path to gold country. Lassen Peak is the largest of more than 30 volcanoes that have erupted in this area over the last three centuries. Most notable in recent times, were a series of eruptions that occurred from 1915 to 1917. The main event on May 22, 1915,  was a huge explosion which blew out the plug of rock at the top.  This powerful eruption created an ash cloud 30,000 feet high, and a lahar that formed the Devastation Area. The eruption was captured in five photographs by R.B. Loomis – great timing on his part. Today, steam vents, mud pots, and hot springs can be found in various places throughout Lassen Volcanic Park.

The evening of the first day, we attended a star-gazing event at the Devastation Area lookout, at 7,000 feet elevation. The sky was clear, without contamination from other light sources. It was amazing. We observed the space station passing overhead, a clear view of the Milky Way, and several meteorites streaking across the night sky. Half a dozen amateur astronomers had set up their telescopes, including some with 19 inch reflective mirrors – very passionate and serious about their hobby.  They invited anyone interested, to view the M7 cluster, which was the focus of their excitement tonight.

After stopping at the Visitors Center the following morning, we walked around Manzanita Lake. What a beautiful little lake. It was an opportunity to sit quietly, observe, and let nature put on its performance – sparkling, glistening water; a deer and her two fawns drinking at the lake’s edge; a Blue Herron flying low over the lake; and meadows of wild flowers, all against the backdrop of Lassen Peak and adjoining mountains.


Manzanita Lake

Manzanita Lake



Manzanita Lake

Manzanita Lake



Manzanita Lake

Manzanita Lake



Manzanita Lake

Manzanita Lake



We are being watched!

We are being watched!



30 ton boulder moved down the mountain lahar

30 ton boulder moved down the mountain lahar



Brent relaxing

Brent enjoying the tranquility of Manzanita Lake


The other main event was our hike to Bumpass Hell basin to see the hot springs and mud pots. The temperature of the water in the Big Boiler is 322 degrees. The story is that Bumpass who discovered these hot springs, filed a claim – hoping to get rich by building a spa. The plan was foiled when he stepped into one of the very hot mud pots – and consequently had to have that leg amputated. I guess he should have used a thermometer rather than his leg to test the temperature. The area reminded us very much of Yellowstone, but a lot more raw and undeveloped.


Lake at start of hike to Bumpass Hell

Lake Helen at start of hike to Bumpass Hell



Hiking up to Bumpass Hell

Hiking up to Bumpass Hell



Water break on path to Bumpass Hell

Water break on path to Bumpass Hell



Overview of the Bumpass Hell Area

Overview of the Bumpass Hell Area



Walking the pathway at Bumpass Hell

Walking the pathway at Bumpass Hell



Big Boiler at 322 degrees

Big Boiler at 322 degrees


Enough! It’s been an exhausting and exhilarating day of hiking more than 7 miles and climbing more than 600 feet. We have seen and experienced just a very small part of the park. We will be back. I highly recommend everyone to experience this national treasure – you’ll need to camp, or rent a small cabin – no four star hotels, no restaurants, no masseuse– just simple, magnificent nature.


Valley below Lassen Peak

Valley below Lassen Peak


While this region will continue to be an active volcanic area, monitoring sensors are in place throughout the park to detect any activity.  For now, Lassen Peak is sleeping.

[PS  Access to WiFi is absent in most of the region.  Also, contrary to what Verizon and AT&T claim about nationwide coverage, it is generally MIA except for small patches around major towns.  So…. postings will be tardy and opportunistic.]

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