A new day! The sun was shining – for the third day in a row! We got into our car! We turned on iTunes, and played Forty Shades of Green by Johnny Cash. As in the song, we are seeing the many shades of green in the rolling hills and farmlands through the Wicklow Mountains and County Tipperary on our way to Cork. It was going to be a long driving day.
Our first destination along the way was Glendalough. In 496 AD, Monk Kevin (eventually became St. Kevin) came to this green, lush valley containing two beautiful lakes. Like a hermit, he lived in a Bronze Age cave next to the larger lake, which could only be reached by boat followed by a climb up the mountain. He learned how to live a minimalistic life and to survive on what nature provided. Others, hearing about his lifestyle, came to this valley to learn how to commune with nature. Over the next several centuries, a sizeable settlement evolved such that by the 9th century, thousands settled here to learn. It became a major monastic city, with students leaving and spreading their religion and lifestyle to mainland Europe.
Bridge Over A Beautiful River to Glendalough
Stone Church In Glendalough
Glendalough Cemetery With Headstones Dating Back to 10th Century
One of the monks, Gallus, moved to Switzerland towards the end of the 6th century and is attributed as the founder of a monastery in north-eastern Switzerland. This monastery eventually became the Abbey St.Gallus, and is the centerpiece of the city formed around this monastery: St. Gallen.
Why is this interesting? It just so happens that the Schwager family’s official city of registration is in Bischofzell, a small town next to St. Gallen. Several of my Aunts and Uncles live or had lived in St. Gallen. We visited the city and Abbey a few years ago at a family reunion.
Back to Ireland! Glendalough is tranquil and spiritual. Remains of many structures as well as graves are spread throughout a large area. Each year, many people make a pilgrimage to the St. Kevin’s cave to ask for health, birth of a healthy child, etc.
Kilkenny Castle Entrance
Kilkenny Castle Courtyard
Kilkenny Castle Dining Room
Continuing our journey, we visited Kilkenny Castle in County Kilkenny. The first castle or building was built in 1172. It went through several major changes and renovations, as well as ownership. Eventually the powerful Butler family bought the castle in the 1300’s and kept it for more than 600 years. Ultimately, just as most castles in the world, it became too expensive to maintain. It could not provide the more modern, comfortable living that today’s residents wanted. In 1967, the family sold off most of the contents, and sold the castle to the Office of Public Works (government) for 50 pounds. The family did keep and store all the artwork, which included tapestry and a gallery of portraits of the Butler family members over the centuries.
Great Pub For Lunch
The OPW has completely renovated the castle, including the Long Gallery, with great attention to detail to make it look like it did originally. The Butler family artwork was returned and is now hanging in the high ceilinged hall – Long Gallery. The OPW worked diligently to locate, to purchase, or to have gifted back most furnishings sold off in 1967. Very grand! It reminded us of Pemberley in Jane Austin’s Pride and Prejudice. We thought we could live in this castle. The decision seemed to make sense as we realized that as part of the renovation most rooms were now heated with disguised electrical heating. However, when we saw the toilet, modern for it’s time – no way.
Cashal Rock Castle
Our final stop was Rock of Cashel. This Celtic and Medieval structure dates back to the 12th century and was a symbol of power of kings and clergy. It includes a cathedral as well as many other structures. UNFORTUNATELY, we ran into two problems: Most of it is under renovation, and it was CLOSED. We arrived too late. This time of year all exhibits and historical sites close early afternoon. It will have to wait until the next time.
Sun Is Beginning To Set On A Cloudy Evening
Sunset As We Get To Cork
Finally, we arrived in Cork and the Hayfield Manor – our home for the next couple of days. As we registered, they were quick to point out that Bill Clinton had stayed here in 2004. Cork is the second largest city in Ireland (Dublin is the largest). The city is vibrant, with a very young population – 40% of the residents are under 25 years old, and only 10% are over 65 years old. It has the smallest senior population of any city in Europe. For beer lovers, this is the seat of Murphy’s beer…and please, don’t mention Guinness if you don’t want a scowl!
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