Our next noteworthy stop was Park Güell, located on the hill above the city. When I picture a park, I envision trees, lawns, playgrounds, or an amusement park. Hansel and Gretel’s gatehouses flank the entrance, suggesting it is a park for children. Well, it isn’t that type of park. At least in the central area which we visited.
Entrance to Park Güel
Gaudí Home
In 1900 Count Eusebi Güell, a developer, purchased about 100 acres of rocky, barren land on the hillside overlooking Barcelona. The property was dry and rocky, which supported only the most tenacious plant life. Güell’s goal was to transform this land into a small scale city with building sites for 60 exclusive, custom homes along with all the supporting infrastructure. He envisioned that the wealthy elites of the town would purchase these sites and build a house to escape the hustle and bustle of the city and enjoy nature and solitude. Güell retained Gaudí to design a 3 km road and adjacent landscaping to provide access to each site via horse-drawn carriage or other vehicles. Landscaping included building a complex irrigation network that could water trees and plants on this dry patch of land. Gaudí accepted the project on the condition that he would not design any of the homes. His park’s structural work is an engineering marvel. As with his other creations, he relied on nature as his muse and inspiration, yet ensured integrity in the design of bridges, cantilevered roadbeds, and the town square. Today the park is lush with trees and vegetation, thanks to the ingenious irrigation network.
Supports for road and irrigation
Once completed, Güell was ready to sell the lots. It was a bust! Only two were purchased. One was the site for a house Gaudí built for himself and lived in for the last 20 years of his life. Why the lack of sales? Güell underestimated the power of the elite’s ‘see and be seen’ passion, and overestimated their interest to retreat or experience solitude. It seems like he relied on his intuition rather than any market or demand study. Not finding buyers, his family gave the park to the city. So the park is filled with trees, shrubs, flowers, and flowing walkways throughout. Rather than being an exclusive park, it is now enjoyed by everyone.
Roadway support structure
Having endured the detailed description of the park’s structural wonders, Erin and Alex were ready to get to the main reason they wanted to visit Spain: the renowned FC Barcelona sports club. The club owns the World Cup-winning football (soccer) team, as well as the top-ranked basketball, handball, and hockey teams. It is massive with separate practice and game facilities, which can accommodate 100,000 spectators. This being the off-season for soccer, we could not attend a game. Naively, I had asked whether our travel planner could arrange for one of the players to meet with Alex and Erin and kick a ball around. They responded kindly that it would not be possible. When I got here, it hit me: that was like asking to meet Tom Brady or Peyton Manning and throw the ball around. The Barcelona team roster includes 8-10 world-class players in parity with Brady and Manning.
Club Barcelona Stadium
Club Barcelona Stadium
We (and hundreds of visitors) could only observe the turf from the sides. Ordinary people are not allowed to violate the pristine, sacred grass. Let’s say that this soccer club is bigger and more elaborate than any NFL team that I’m aware of. It has a multi-room display of the club history and all the trophies won by the team and individual players since its founding. Full-wall screens continuously run video clips of important goals and victories. A little known fact is that the club was founded by the Swiss, Joan Gamper, in 1899. Hop Schwyz! Hop! Our tour ended at the stadium store. It is situated on three levels and became the main attraction for Alex and Erin to spend time selecting that just right, one item they wanted for a souvenir.
Dan took us to one of his favorite restaurants to enjoy a leisurely lunch, and learn about Catalonia’s ongoing struggle for independence from Spain. The ethnopolitical stand-off doesn’t provide much room for compromise. Both sides have taken hard positions. As an example, the central government’s legislative actions have attempted to stop the teaching and use of the Catalonian language. Catalonia continues to teach the Catalonian as the first language in schools. Hence the Catalonia language has become the bellwether of the independence drive. A 2017 referendum overwhelmingly supported independence, even though the Central government sent in the Spanish National Police to discourage voting and attacking demonstrators, injuring more than 1,000.
Dan believes that the spirit of the Franco dictatorship, while not highlighted, is very much alive in the rest of Spain. Why is the remnant of this dictatorship still present? According to Dan, Spain never broke the chains of totalitarianism. Franco was not a member of the Axis power during WWII, but was sympathetic and supported Hitler. Spain did not get pulled into the war. Unfortunately, the end of the war did not rid Spain of Franco. A 1947 law reinstated the old kingdom, but declared Franco to be the head of state for life, and gave him the power to name the King as well as his own successor. He remained in power until his death in 1977. The government was never purged or overthrown. Despite the rejection of Franco by the international community and especially President Truman, the U.S.’s sponsored Spain to join the United Nations. The need for military bases in the area, and to check the communist bloc, trumped the oppressive and illegal activity.
Today’s ruling party, a melding of financial oligarchs and political power brokers, is using the conflict with Catalonia to rally the rest of Spain against the province and to position the party as the only one capable of controlling the situation. A classic strategy used throughout time and the world: divide the nation on some basis; support one side (rest of Spain in this case), and claim it is the victim of the other side (Catalonia). Then abusing civil rights and allowing financial corruption to thrive, maintain the grip on power. Recent news hints of a softening of the ruling hardliners, most likely to address international concerns regarding the Spanish economy (they had to be bailed out in 2012), which continues to experience unemployment above 20%.
Finishing lunch, we made our way down the Passeig de Gárcia, lined with street vendors and Al Fresco cafes and eateries, to the port. There we caught the funicular railway to the top of Montjuic. A steep ride that took 5 minutes deposited us near the Castle and Fort Montjuïc. Dan, our guide, had advised us that the castle and fort were of little interest, but that the view over the port was spectacular. He was right! Nearby, the terrace of the Hotel Mirama afforded a panoramic view of the harbor and the Mediterranean shoreline while sitting on the café’s terrace. A moment to reflect and enjoy an afternoon refresher. Dishes of chocolate gelato ice cream and cups of coffee certainly enhanced the ambiance.
Overlooking the Barcelona Harbor
City view from Mt. Montjuïc
Terrace Café at Hotel Montjuic
We enjoyed the setting so much that we lost track of time and missed the day’s last ride in the gondola down to the waterfront. During our walk back to the hotel, we discovered a small restaurant overlooking one of the squares. Not being able to read the Spanish Menu, we deferred to our English speaking waiter, to make suggestions. He was adamant that we start with the traditional Catalan Pan Tumaca or toast with tomato. It reminded us of bruschetta but much more straightforward.
Catalan Pan Tumaca
The toast, rubbed with garlic, then rubbed with half a tomato and drizzled with olive oil was tasty. That was followed with seafood dishes, including squid, clams, and vegetable side dishes that included fried aubergines and broad beans fried with olive oil. The meal was delicious, with very subtle spicing. We’re now in the hunt for a genuine Spanish paella. Stay tuned!
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