Yesterday we traveled by train, plane, and automobile to start the second half of our trip in Ireland. Arriving in Dublin in the afternoon, we brought blue skies and sunshine with us. Everyone has told us how rainy the weather had been to-date.
Map Of Ireland
Our Dublin hotel is in the old center of town, between the River Liffey and the Grand Canal. It feels very British…London-like, except for a lack of high-rise buildings that typically mark the center of town. The height of buildings is limited by law to protect every one’s view. It is the size of San Francisco proper and feels vibrant and healthy. Our lunch at a restaurant named Matt the Thresher, just around the corner from our hotel, was outstanding – fresh oysters and French fries. Does it get any better? Perhaps, with the addition of a pint of Guinness. Roselie finally had an outstanding espresso…the first in weeks. We learned, after the fact, that Matt the Thresher is Obama’s restaurant of choice whenever he is in town – just in case you needed to know.
This morning we met with our guide/driver, Martin, who will be with us for the next week. We did some homework to understand the history of Ireland, but it was difficult to grasp. So we depended on Martin to explain some parts of it and put them in perspective.
Our Ireland Guide: Martin
Here is a synopsis of what I’ve learned. As a start, the rough framework is as follows. Many of the sights we expect to see fall into these time frames:
Stone Age: 9300 to 3300 BC
Bronze Age: 3300 to 1300 BC
Iron Age: 1300 BC to 700 AD
Medieval Period: 12th to 16th Century
Early Modern Period: 16th to 17th Century
Modern Period: 18th to 20th Century
Some of the key events include:
Invasion of the Vikings
Invasion of the Normans
Invasion by the British
Potato Famine 1845 to 1852
The Rising in 1916
The Troubles, beginning in 1960
The Migration of 1980’s and 1990’s
The Celtic Dragon of 2004 to 2008
The Irish culture from the Stone Age, transitioned into the Bronze Age. As the Bronze Age was coming to a close, a new cultural influence permeated Ireland – the Celtic culture. Developed in central Europe, the Celtics arrived in Ireland about 500 BC and eventually completely transformed the island. The strength and power of the Celtic culture was based on their discovery of iron. This new technology gave them the power to expand throughout the continent, Britain, and Ireland. It can be described more as a gradual assimilation over several centuries, rather than decisive invasions.
Things remained fairly stable until the 7th and 8th centuries AD, when the Vikings invaded Ireland. These Scandinavian-based people had developed advanced seagoing skills which they used to conquer and plunder a broad area extending south to the Mediterranean and west to Britain, Ireland, Iceland, Greenland and even North America. This Viking Age lasted until the Normans, who were based in what is now northern France, conquered England in 1066 and subsequently invaded Ireland in 1069. The British, in partnership with Normans and with the encouragement of the Pope to expand Catholicism, absorbed Ireland into the British Empire. Things evolved between Britain and Ireland over several centuries, but basically England treated Ireland as the poor, subservient cousin. By 1609, the structure of Ireland was finalized with the recognition of 32 counties.
Fast forward, to 1916 and The Rising. This was Ireland’s ‘Declaration of Independence’ from Britain. Obviously, Britain didn’t take this well. So they rounded up the 14 ringleaders, imprisoned them in the infamous Kilmainham Gaol [Jail], and then summarily executed them. The Rising is extremely significant to the Irish people. This year marks the 100th Anniversary. Banners celebrating the event are everywhere, along with planned events throughout the year.
WE SAW A VISION
IN THE DARKNESS OF DESPAIR WE SAW A VISION
WE LIT THE LIGHT OF HOPE
AND IT WAS NOT EXTINGUISHED
IN THE DESERT OF DISCOURAGEMENT WE SAW A VISION
WE PLANTED THE TREE OF VALOUR
AND IT BLOSSOMED
IN THE WINTER OF BONDAGE WE SAW A VISION
WE MELTED THE SNOW OF LETHARGY
AND THE RIVER OF RESURRECTION FLOWED FROM IT
WE SENT OUR VISION ASWIM LIKE A SWAN ON THE RIVER
THE VISION BECAME A REALITY
WINTER BECAME SUMMER
BONDAGE BECAME FREEDOM
AND THIS WE LEFT TO YOU AS YOUR INHERITANCE
O GENERATIONS OF FREEDOM REMEMBER US,
THE GENERATION OF THE VISION
Liam Mac Uistin
Remembrance Monument To The 1916 Rising
Finally, in 1921, the Anglo-Irish Treaty was signed. The treaty created an independent country consisting of the 26 southern, and mostly Catholic counties. The six northeastern counties remained within the United Kingdom. This fracture of the Irish people created major problems, that while-toned down today, remains very much in play.
Most of us have witnessed the Northern Ireland Conflict or “Troubles” as they refer to it here, starting in the 1960’s and extending into the 21st century. While things have calmed down and improved, there is still an aura present. Whenever we talk to anyone, they refer to Ireland as 32 counties. Oh, by the way, six are governed by England. So the totality of Ireland takes precedence over the governing structure. Northern Ireland’s currency is the British Pound. The Republic of Ireland uses the Euro. It is now easy for residents to cross the border without checkpoints. Interestingly, Martin would not recommend going to Northern Ireland – too risky and dangerous.
Our first stop of the day was Phoenix Park – the largest park in Ireland with more than 1800 acres. It includes a monument to Pope John Paul II’s visit in 1979. It also includes a huge statue to the Duke of Wellington (a.k.a. Iron Duke), which survived the “Troubles.” A British monument to Admiral Horatio Nelson in the center of Dublin was blown up during the ‘Troubles.’ Why didn’t they destroy the Wellington memorial? Too far out of town to be visible to the media – it’s all about marketing.
The Kilmainham Gaol Where 14 Patriots Were Executed in 1906
Monument To The 14 Patriots Executed
The infamous Kilmainham Gaol was impenetrable this morning! Visitors are only allowed in on a guided tour… the next one scheduled an hour later. So we consoled ourselves by photographing a memorial, across from the entrance, to the 14 patriots that were executed inside the prison.
St. Patrick’s Cathedral
Inside St. Patricks Cathedral
A church has been located at the St. Patrick’s Cathedral site since the 5th century. The current structure was completed in 1191. It is beautiful. Handel’s Messiah was first performed in this Cathedral in 1742 and sung by the church choir. Jonathan Swift (author of Gulliver’s Travels) was the Dean from 1713 to 1745.
Now it’s time for a transition. What could be better than a visit to Guinness (Beer) Storehouse? They understand marketing. This is like a Disneyland with a self-guided tour of seven floors of displays and experiences on making, pouring, and tasting this famous beer. We finished with a complimentary pint on the 7th floor.
We’re Ready To Learn About Beer
Irish Stew And A Pint! Hearty Lunch.
Next stop was Trinity College to see the Book of Kells. The college, established in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth, is a very active university with more than 25,000 students. They’ve preserved the ‘old buildings and look’ by placing much of the growth underground, or discreetly building so as not to take away the ‘oldness.’ The college is also the location of the Old Library, containing more than 200,000 of the oldest books. On display are two pages of the original Book of Kells, along with the illustrations that made it famous. The book contains the four gospels, written by monks starting in the 7th century. What makes it unique are the illustrations added throughout the manuscript. Fascinating. If you would like a further explanation and the various travels it survived, I recommend looking it up.
Trinity College
Trinity College Library Of Old Books
Our final stop was the Medieval Dublin Castle that was completed in 1231 and served as a major defense structure for the city following the Norman invasion in 1169. It served the British kings to protect the people and safeguard the King’s treasures. It served many purposes over the centuries and was modified several times. Of the original four towers, only one remains today.
Great Courtyard Of The Dublin Castle
Last Remaining Tower of Dublin Castle
Dublin Castle’s Dining Room
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