Well, that was about three million years ago, after a massive volcano, estimated to have been as high as 19,000 feet, exploded and collapsed to form the caldera. No fires or bubbles remain today. It is the world’s largest unfilled volcanic caldera covering more than 100 square miles. Following its eruption and subsequent collapse, the elevation of the floor of the crater stabilized at about 6,000 feet above sea level. It is our destination for today. Our lodge is located less than a mile from the entrance, on the outside slope of the caldera rim.
Baby Baboon hangin’ in there.
Mama watching the kids play.
As we approach the entrance gate, along with dozens of other safari vehicles all jostling for a coveted parking space while the guides pay the entrance fees, we were entertained by dozens of baboons along the side of the road. It was fun to watch the young ones playing, clearly annoying their mothers. With the entrance fees settled, we proceeded to the top of the Ngorongoro crater’s rim and a lookout to enjoy a panoramic view of the crater floor. We stopped for only a minute. It was cloudy, and fog covered part of the crater. It was cold and very windy. Nicholas and Elly came prepared and put on ski caps. The rest of us could handle the cold, we’re used to cold weather, and besides, we didn’t bring any snow clothing. Well, except for Ann, who brought some instant hand warmer packets. Does anyone want one?
Ngorongoro Crater overview
Driving down the steep slope to the crater floor, Daniel narrated an overview of this national park. While the geology of the crater is interesting, it is the wildlife within this microcosm of the Serengeti ecosystem which makes it uniquely fascinating. The crest of this volcanic bowl serves as a natural, challenging barrier to wildlife entering or leaving. The annual migration cycle generally occurs within the caldera, with only 20 percent of the wildebeest and zebra population going and coming. It is a miniature replica of the Serengeti Ecosystem, including more than 25,000 large, hoofed animals. There are no giraffes in the crater, due to lack of food sources they prefer. In the cat family, Elly said the caldera is home to five lion prides with a total lion population of about 80. Their population has fluctuated dramatically over the years, largely as a consequence of various diseases.
The park is part of the Maasai homeland, who may graze their cattle. Everyone else must exit the park by 6 PM. Descending into the wildlife promised land, we immediately encounter a herd of more than 100 zebras lining up to cross the road ahead of us. Fearless. Peaceful. After all, we don’t look like a lion. I enjoyed watching them up close, listening to their snorts, high-pitched barks, and the sounds of their hoofs on the rocky ground. The land looks barren, uniformly dry with few noticeable features. The relatively flat terrain lends to easily spotting the various animals. Unfortunately, it also makes safari vehicles more easily spotted too. The massive invasion of these mechanical beasts dampened my feeling of being one with nature. When asked, Daniel said that today there would be about 400 vehicles in the crater. During the peak season, that number is upwards of 800. Is there a limit on the amount allowed, per day? No, not yet. The government is torn between preserving a pristine national treasure and the economic benefit from tourism. A problematic balance especially when you consider that tourism provides an income to people who would otherwise revert to poaching. Poaching has been all but eliminated completely.
Consequently, tourism contributes to preserving wildlife, including the rare, black rhinos. The balance between benefits and cost continues to be an ongoing struggle. From my perspective as a tourist, the number of vehicles and visitors diminishes the safari experience. I certainly would not suggest going during the peak season. I believe that increasing the entrance fee for visitors and vehicles would reduce the number, yet contribute the same economic benefit without the pressure to expand the infrastructure, i.e., restroom facilities, to accommodate the large crowds.
Lions munching on zebra
I’ve already eaten. I’m full!
The number of safari vehicles creates an unintended change in the guides’ search for wildlife. Usually, they would watch the sky for circling vultures. That would suggest there was a kill nearby, with lions and jackals nearby. In the Ngorongoro Crater, the guides look for clusters of safari vehicles. The assemblage signals that something of interest is there, initiating a convergence and the subsequent positioning for the best possible view. We avoid sites which have attracted too many vehicles. One exciting instance was at a kill site, where the youngest lions were taking their turn at munching on a zebra carcass. The males, having already eaten, were hanging around nearby. We were one of three vehicles that discovered this sighting. Within minutes, a dozen vehicle joined the viewing, boxing in several of the earlier trucks. Since we didn’t want to get boxed in, Elly moved back, ensuring we had an exit path.
Male lion making his way to our vehicle.
The two male lions began to move towards us. What an unapologetic photo opportunity! One of the lions rounded the back of our second vehicle and marked the spare tire and bumper before moving on. A second male approached another truck. The lion plopped down in the shade of the truck, adjacent to the running board, with its tail behind the front wheel. Apparently time for a nap. The truck couldn’t move! The park rangers approached but would not intervene, except to warn the driver not to leave until the lion left in its own good time. Oh, by the way: Here is a $500 fine for not avoiding the encounter as it approached in the first place.
He found a little shade! Don’t move that truck!
As mid-day approached, we made our way to the Ngoitoktok Springs and picnic area to enjoy our box-lunch and take advantage of the only comfort station in the park. Not quite my expectation of a picnic area. Trucks moving everywhere! Dust clouds! Fifty or more safari vehicles parked anywhere they could find space, restroom facilities were stretched beyond capacity and had 10-minute lines. There were no places to eat….everyone ate inside their cars. This is picnicking African style.
Watering hole, picnic site, restrooms and crowds
Gail enjoying our ‘picnic’.
The location did offer the benefit of several hippos playing in the shallow water. One decided to come ashore and check out all the visitors. Several tourists, eager to take up close photos or a selfie with a hippo in the background, approached closer, even as nearby safari vehicles were backing away. The park rangers were anxiously calling them to get back. Either these tourists were unaware of the danger or decided to ignore the warnings. Perhaps they were vying for a Darwin Award. Hippos are very dangerous and unpredictable, charging without notice. It does raise the question: Why does park management permit getting out of vehicles in this location which is readily accessible by all wildlife, but nowhere else? Specifically without a safety barrier or armed ranger?
A Hippo checking out all the commotion ashore.
After finishing lunch, we continued to drive through other sections of the crater with the hope of spotting a black rhino. It is the only one of the Big Five we had not seen. We saw an abundance of other wildlife…zebras, wildebeests, hippos, flamingos, and ostriches, among many more. No rhino!
Male ostrich, fluffing his feathers to attract a female.
Two Secretary birds taking in the view of flamingos.
We conceded that a rhino sighting will have to wait for another time, another place. There will be several more opportunities over the next week.
The Neptune Lodge property.
Luxury on a safari.
Heading back to the Neptune Lodge, we joined the procession of safari vehicles on the very steep, one-way road up to the ridge. It was a great day. We were welcomed back to our comfort sanctuary with a cold, wet cloth to freshen up, and a glass of tree tomato juice (a.k.a. Tamarillo).
Jumbo, Jumbo. Hufurahi kwako!
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