August 23, 2015 through August 27, 2015
Our plan was to move our camp to the East side of the park. In order to get there, we were constrained [no trailers on Going-to-the-Sun Road] to taking the road which runs along the Southern rim of the park. It follows a river and is the only East-West connection in this part of Montana. The rail, including Amtrak, uses the same through path.
Problems emerged a few days earlier when a wild-fire broke out [caused by lightning] along a seven-mile stretch and was threatening to jump both the road and the rail tracks. They closed the 60-mile road to all traffic. Fortunately, the morning we had to leave Fish Creek, they opened the road on a limited basis, requiring an escort car to lead caravans of cars and trucks through the fire area. Fire crews were everywhere. After breaking camp quickly, we used the window of opportunity to reach St. Mary. The big remaining concern was whether or not we could get back to the West side four days later. The only airport is in Kalispell, on the West side. Alternatively we would need to drive to Great Falls or Missoula. UGH!
Water is the main attraction for the Gang of 5.
We set up ‘Camp Bear’ at the St. Mary campground, adjacent to the St. Mary river. Everyone headed to water for a swim or to catch fish. Most of the trails in the immediate area were closed. So the following morning we headed North to Many Glaciers. While smoke was ever-present, Many Glaciers seemed to be untouched by fire. Some of us decided to walk around Swiftcurrent Lake, while Brent, Mitchell, and Alex were determined to catch fish, and the final group set off on a hike to Lake Josephine. The fishermen caught 8 trout – this was Alex’s first catch – ever. We enjoyed the fish as an appetizer that evening. The Josephine group was stopped halfway to their destination by rangers who closed the trail due to heavy bear activity further ahead. If it’s not fire and smoke, there is the BEAR problem, just to add some excitement.
Lake Swiftcurrent
Many Glaciers Hotel shrouded in smoke.
Swift current river – fishing hole for Brent, Mitchell, and Alex.
The Many Glaciers Hotel is a Swiss themed lodge, in a beautiful setting, with a view of the lake and surrounding mountains. The dining room has a beautiful, huge fireplace and a menu with many ‘gamey’ selections. We indulged!
Main dining area at Many Glaciers Hotel
The following day, we traveled South to Two Medicine. It is quite remote and can only be reached via a difficult access road. We concurred that this is our favorite place. It is fairly primitive and does not have a lot of visitors. We joined a ranger-led boat tour around the lake to learn its history, followed by a two-mile nature hike to Aster Falls. Several sightings of wildlife – moose, grouse, and NO bears – made this a fun hike.
Rising Wolf Mountain
Walking around Swiftcurrent Lake
Typical, smokey evening.
We talked to the ranger [Ranger Kelly], who lives in this area year-round, about fires. While we marveled at the beauty of the surrounding forest and grand mountains, she pointed out that Two Medicine needs a fire to regenerate the forest. It is a very old, lodgepole forest. The last fire was over 125 years ago. It is long over due. The lodgepole pine cones are covered with a resin. This resin prevents any seeds from escaping the cone to start new trees. The only thing that can release these seeds is heat. So when a forest burns, the resin melts, and the seeds are released. The fire also burns all the underbrush and deadwood, so the sun can get through and provide light and warmth for the seedlings. A very dense forest is born, and the cycle starts again. Obviously there is conflict here: not many visitors want to come to a huge field of black and gray, burned sticks. It has serious impact on businesses which depend on tourism. At the same time, trying to save structures becomes a challenge and is in conflict with the ‘let it burn’ philosophy. There are no easy, simple answers. While we want and enjoy the current environment, Ranger Kelly would like to see a rebirth of the forest. Wild life appears to adapt by moving to other areas which contain the food they need. Very few are destroyed by the fire. As the burned forest comes back to life with berries, insects, and plants – wildlife follows the food supply and reappears.
Nature hike to Aster Falls
Appistoki Peak in the distance.
Male grouse showing his colors.
Moose enjoying a feeding.
Aster Falls in Two Medicine area.
On our last full day at St. Mary, Bill, Brent, Mark and Mitchell rose before dawn to return to Many Glaciers and to hike up to the Grinnell Glacier – 5 hours; 25,000 fitbit steps, 12.5 miles, 211 floors; 3,700 calories burned. Big smiles all around. Wow! Glacier flour in the water gave it a light blue/green color. Brent brought back a bottle of the water so the rest of us could get a taste of glacier water [filtered, of course].
Grinnell Lake
Grinnell Glacier
Grinnell Glacier
We made it! Grinnell Glacier.
As is fitting, our last night at St. Mary was filled with DRAMA! We had seen several Black and Grizzly bears in brush adjacent to our campground. Our Camp Bear was surrounded by bushes full of ripe, dark berries. At about 1 AM, Kelly and Bill heard a huge bear right next to their tent, eating these berries. The ground reverberated with heavy breathing and growling. Their first strategy was to stay absolutely still [Erin and Alex were fast asleep]. The second strategy was to trigger their car’s alarm. The third, was to yell and make lots of human noises. Thankfully the first strategy worked. HOWEVER, it is not clear that after this terrifying experience, whether Kelly will ever again stay in a tent when camping in bear country. The following day, the rangers closed our campground to everything but hard sided trailers, RV’s, etc. After all, this is the bears’ territory, not ours.
Avenue of the Cedars
Tranquility in the Cedar forest.
We returned to the West side, again escorted by a lead car through the fire zone. An hour after arriving at the West entrance, they closed the road again. We lucked out. Fire, smoke, and bears have clearly been a force on our trip, but timing has been in our favor. Scary at times, but still awesome – as the kids would say.
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