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Writer's pictureAndre Schwager

Day 11 – Waterton Lakes National Park

2014 Exploring The Northwest – DAY 11

The summer season in Waterton is winding down starting today. The season is short: July and August. During its peak, there are about 1500 people in town, which dwindles down to about 300 by mid-September, and ultimately to about 100 permanent, year-round residents..


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The weather today is: Very Windy, with rain forecast for all of tomorrow. Upper Waterton Lake runs North-South and crosses the Canadian-USA border. We took a cruise on the 80-year old International scenic boat to the southern end of the lake – Goat Haunt, where we walked to the visitors’ center and the USA border crossing. This crossing is referred to as the ‘back door entrance’ to Glacier National Park, used primarily by hikers. It was fully manned by two USA border patrol guards in full uniform, guns, and trademark serious/surly expression – no photos allowed. Please. After all they had to protect themselves from the tired hikers armed with their walking sticks.


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It did not rain during this cruise, but we certainly donned our ski hats and heavy coats. The area includes many internationally recognized hikes. Unfortunately given the weather, we have not been able to enjoy any of them.

As we arrived back at port, we spotted a 350 lb. brown bear eating insects from underneath rocks on the lakeshore. The bears are getting ready for winter, so they are focused on eating in excess of 40,000 calories per day.


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We consoled ourselves at the Prince of Whales Lodge, with coffee and a glass of wine, while viewing the lake and its surrounding vistas. It is interesting that most of the employees in hotels and restaurants are from other parts of Canada, Australia, Germany, Ukraine, etc. Most are students at universities and return at the end of the season. In the tradition of Whales in the UK, all the service employees at the Prince of Whales lodge wore plaid ties and skirts [including the men].

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