Our next destination – north and at a higher altitude – is Santa Fe. We encountered yet another type of weather – Snow! It was not severe, just enough to dust the landscape but not enough to stick to the highway. By the time we set up camp, the sun was back out and all the snow was gone. But the mountain peaks around the city were a brilliant white with the new snow!
Snow on the way to Santa Fe
It’s cold out there.
Snow in them there hills!
Our first excursion from our new base camp was to the small, spiritual community of Chimayo, about 25 miles north of Santa Fe. The guide books described the village as a set of non-paved plazas with their own names, interconnected via dirt roads. While we tried to find these plazas, there were no markings other than “Private. Keep Out.” It is a very poor area. The ‘spirituality’ originated in 1814, when a Catholic priest discovered a large wooden cross in a public pasture. He carried the cross to the local church. Miraculously, the cross disappeared from the church and reappeared in the same spot in the pasture. This reportedly happened three times. I guess it was a ‘sign.’ So they built a shrine around the well of soil where the cross was found. Several hundred thousand visit this “Lourdes of America” each year to heal spiritually or physically. The well or hole in the floor, sits in a small room, is about 12 inches in diameter, and is filled with dirt. One can purchase a small plastic bag to take some healing dirt home… we’re guessing they fill the hole each night with more dirt. Many of those healed leave shoes, braces, crutches, or photographs in the shrine as testimony to the healing powers.
Chapel for healing
The chapel’s altar.
Decorations over the entry to the Chapel
The guide books clearly embellish the description of Chimayo far beyond reality. They fail to mention that historically it was known for heroin distribution and usage, property crimes, and high rates of deaths due to overdose. As we navigated the narrow dirt roads, one house was surrounded by state police and DEA trucks. The town has made a lot of progress, but the historic problems have not been completely eradicated.
The main church.
Statue of the expecting Mary.
There were very few visitors in the village. The area is also known for weaving in the traditional Spanish method. The Ortega and Trujillo families have kept this art form alive through many generations and sell their wares at two stores near the Plaza del Cerro. Hopefully the tourist traffic will increase as the season goes into full swing at the end of May. More exciting to us was the rebirth of their heirloom chile industry. With the aid of federal and state funding, the 300-year old seed stock was revived between 2005 and 2009. A Co-op store gave us the chance to try various different types of crushed chile – delicious. Now tasting is not that simple…in fact it’s quite elaborate. The vendor would take a Spanish oyster (a pistachio nut, in one half of the shell), sprinkle some chili on top. Next, you pop the nut and chili into your mouth, chew and mash it together near the front of your mouth, before swallowing. Once swallowed, you must create a loud click with your tongue against the top of your mouth, to appreciate the full effect. We were great students and executed the ritual many, many times, before buying five large bags of different chilis. I’m now adding them to scrambled eggs, vegetables, fish, and poultry.
Depicting the three cultures of New Mexico: Anglo, Spanish, and Native Americans,
Commemorating individuals who drag a cross for many miles for personal redemption
Our final stop was in the Chimayo Museum and Store. It is mostly a store…very minimal museum. Since we were the only patrons in the store, we did get the chance to talk with the clerk. I told her about the idea of an El Norte Nation based on a common culture. “No way! Can’t ever happen!” she said. She is a retired, degreed accountant who works in the shop to keep busy. A co-worker, also degreed, was also staffing this store, until she took a two-week vacation. During her absence, the priest who manages this church hired a Mexican woman to replace her… at a much lower wage. This type of action creates very strong feelings against Mexicans – they bring drugs, they steal, and they take our jobs. Will the 20-foot, beautiful Trump wall help? No! That’s a ridiculous idea. So how can we resolve the issue? Don’t hire them. All in all, not a very happy person. The prospect of an El Norte Nation is becoming dimmer with every conversation I’ve had.
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