Arriving late morning in Barcelona, we were all in a state of fog following just three hours of ‘airplane’ sleep. The Barcelona airport is large, spacious and very modern, located 18 kilometers Southwest of the 4.8 million people city. Our porter/guide welcomed us and took care of everything. Good thing, we didn’t have to think or figure anything out. Don’t think, just follow the man!
Barcelona is one of four provinces in the Catalonian region in the South Eastern corner of Spain. The area became a part of Spain in the 15th century following the royal marriage between King Ferdinand of Aragon and Queen Isabella of Castile. The Catalonian people believe in and have attempted to retain autonomy throughout Spain’s history, even keeping its language, which is more Italian/French-like than Spanish. Their tenacious hold on independence has created many difficulties for its people. More about that later.
Our home for the next four days was the Monument Hotel situated on the city’s main street, Passeig de Gárcia. The road is Barcelona’s posh boulevard, lined with every high-end shop you can name not dissimilar from 5th Avenue in New York, or Rodeo Drive in Los Angeles. This wide boulevard runs down-slope from the mountains to the old city and the bank of the Mediterranean. While most cities seem to grow and expand randomly, the city’s forefathers had the foresight to design and implement a grid architecture. The designer, Cerdà, developed the long-term plan during the 19th century. The proposal would shape the city’s growth, starting at the port and old town and expand towards the mountains. His design could accommodate pedestrians, horse-drawn trams, sewers, city rail lines, natural gas supply lines, as well as public and private gardens. As an example, each major intersection takes the shape of an octagon, with a central plaza containing a monument and a public park or plaza. The shape of the plaza, without 90-degree corners, enhanced airflow avoiding wind tunnel effects. Our hotel entrance formed an octagonal section to one of these intersections. The streets and sidewalks are immaculately clean, surprising given the traffic and numbers of people.
Over the next few days, everyone was ready to tackle the Barcelona itinerary, which included:
The old city
The Sagrada Familia church
The 1992 Summer Olympic site
Site of the 1929 International Exhibition
Park Güell
Most importantly: The Barcelona Football Club’s stadium
A paddle surf lesson and beach outing
A motorcycle sidecar tour of the city at night
Tapas: Food! Very important
Our guide, Dan, is British but has lived in Barcelona for 18 years. He was on his way to Africa, stopped in Barcelona, fell in love, and stayed. This morning, our first stops
Gaudí Building across from our hotel
Gaudí design with sea serpent roof
were two Gaudí designed buildings within a block of our hotel. (BTW the word gaudy has no relationship to Gaudí). Strikingly different from more traditional architectures, his designs embraced different themes and messages. Using nature as his inspiration, he blended architecture and religion into his own unique ‘look.’ Trees, waves of the ocean, sea creatures, just to name a few, made his creations very different and, at times, whimsical when compared to the work of his contemporaries. Each of his buildings tells a story. Each building bears the name of the person who financed the project. The second floor (of 4-8 floors) was traditionally the residence of the owner. The centerpiece of this floor was a signature balcony or enclosed enclave facing the street, so these wealthy owners could ‘see and be seen.’ Members of the family, dressed in high-fashion attire, so people could gawk and admire these ‘elites.’ Today, yachts, red Ferrari’s, and silver Rolls-Royces serve a similar purpose.
Next was the overview of the city from the hill with the Olympic cauldron at its peak. On our way, we drove through various areas and venues which reflect the history of the town. Two world fairs and the 1992 Summer Olympics were the driving forces behind significant enhancements to the city, including the complete restructuring of the port into three sections: the shipping and cargo section, the cruise line piers, and the public marinas, beach, casino sections. Barcelonans are very proud of having hosted the 1992 Olympics. It’s the one where the Olympic flame was lit by an archer sending a flaming arrow up to the caldron (YouTube: 1992 Olympic Torch Lighting), at the top of the venue hill. These international events initiated major projects and rapid urban regeneration, thus increasing Barcelona’s stature in the world and positioning it as a top tourist destination.
Next, we passed the old bullfighting ring, which has been converted to shops and restaurants, since bullfighting is no longer legal in Catalonia. Whizzing by the many sites of interest and history was quite overwhelming as we made our way through the old and new parts of the downtown area.
The centerpiece of Barcelona today is the large, unfinished Roman Catholic church, Sagrada Família. This 18-spire church was started in 1882 and was to be financed by private donations. According to our guide Dan, these donations were payments to the Catholic church by individuals who purchased forgiveness for their sins. It seems the city had very few sinners since the gifts were slow in coming, and thus funded construction at a snail’s pace. The original church architect, Francisco Villar, resigned in 1883 and was succeeded by Gaudí. To put the rate of development in perspective, by the time Gaudí died in1926, only 15 to 20 percent had been completed. (Photo below is 1915)
Gaudí
Sagrada Familia 1915
Sagrada Familia Today
Many things contributed to the lack of progress beyond the low rate of donations: the Spanish Civil War in 1936, and a major fire which destroyed most of Gaudí’s original drawings. Construction reached a tipping point when it was far enough along to allow people to visit.
That and the decision to permit the financing of the project via ticket sales sparked a building surge. In addition to money, a new architectural team committed to implementing Gaudí’s design, modern computer-aided design. All contributed to the acceleration of construction. The architectural team recently announced the church would be completed by 2026…or so! People are somewhat skeptical. They ask – if it’s taken 125 years to get to 70% complete, how will they finish it in 7 years? It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was consecrated in 2010 by Pope Benedict XVI. The church celebrates Mass every Sunday. The teams’ publicized commitment and international visibility are today’s drivers to get it done!
The church is adjacent to several unattractive apartments and business buildings, which are a distraction from the beauty of the basilica, thus making it difficult to see its grandeur. Several proposals are advancing through the government, to purchase and remove adjacent buildings to make room for a public park that would encircle the spotlight’ flower’ at its center.
The inside of the church is truly unique. Pillars are not vertical but rather lean in various directions as if you were entering a forest wherein the columns represent trees moving with the wind.
Inside Sagrada Familia with pillars resembling swaying trees
Statue of Christ hand gliding over the altar
Other than what looks like, at first glance, a hand-gliding Jesus on the cross floating over the alter, there are no Catholic items or images inside.
Front view of Strada Familia
Teachings of the church depicted in the facade
While most Catholic churches depict the stories of Jesus and his teachings via artwork inside the church, the lessons are all depicted on the external façade of Familia. Very unusual. Very different. Very beautiful. When finished, the church will stand out as a marvel with 18 spirals, with the central spiral representing Jesus being taller than any building in the city.
Model of the completed basilica
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