After our down time in Tuscany, we were ready to hit the big cities again. We drove back to Florence, dropped off our car, and boarded a high-speed train to Rome. A very civilized trip. Kelly had secured another great apartment right in the heart of the Rome –a short walk from the Spanish Steps, the Piazza Navona, the Pantheon, a grocery store, a bakery, and the all-important café outside our front door. Does it get any better?
Arrived at our Rome Apartment
Once unpacked, we headed to the Spanish Steps. The crowds were yuuuge, and the steps are blocked off for maintenance, which has been going on for many months with no scheduled end-date in sight. The good news is that the work crews are doing a great job. They are almost white compared to the dark, dirty, grimy steps the last time we were here. Originally built-in 1725, they form an elegant staircase from the Spanish square, where the Spanish Embassy was located, to the Trinita dei Monti church at the top. The stairs are a popular hangout for poets, artists, and models hoping to be noticed or photographed.
Spanish Steps
Della Barcacci Fountain
The fountain Della Barcacci, which looks like a bathtub, is located in the square at the bottom of the steps. I believe it reportedly represents an old, sinking ship. While we couldn’t walk up the steps, a marching band did provide a distraction to celebrate something or other. Carried along by a crowd of more than a thousand tourists, we followed them to the next square for a couple more performances. Very Italian!
Italian style piazza entertainment.
Next, we walked to the Piazza Navona, which became our unofficial hang-out place during our stay – lined with restaurants, wine cafes, gelato vendors, throngs of people, and people watching. It’s was especially pleasant in the evening, after dinner, with a gelato or Lemoncello in hand. The piazza is a very popular meeting place. It is rectangular in shape and built on the spot of the Stadium of Domitian, an arena for Roman games until the 16th century. Today, it hosts three beautiful fountains. The central fountain, Fountain of the Four Rivers, was designed by Bernini and then augmented with the Obelisk of Domitian. Two other fountains flank this centerpiece: The Moor Fountain on one side and the more impressive Fountain of Neptune on the other.
Piazza Navona in the morning.
Piazza Navona in the evening.
Fountain of the Four Rivers
Fountain of Neptune
Getting out early the next morning, we were ready for the Colosseum. We met Fabian (Guide by Locals) only to discover that today was a free-day at the Colosseum. The crowds were incredible, so we decided to meet him the next morning. We walked back to our apartment, exploring the various neighborhoods. The best treat was the beautiful (inside) Basilica Di San Pietro in Vincoli, which houses Michelangelo’s Moses.
Basilica Di San Pietro in Vincoli
Michelangelo’s Moses
Moses up close.
Continuing our trek to our home base, we stopped at Piazza Venezia which is considered the center of Rome. Our taxis had frequently driven through the ever-present chaotic traffic caused by the convergence of four major roads – a somewhat milder version of the Arc de Triomphe round-about in Paris and without a pedestrian tunnel to get across. It gave us pause trying to cross Piazza on foot. One of the main roads starts here, passes the Roman Forum, and ends at the Colosseum. The main structure is the large, imposing National Monument, also known as the Altar of the Fatherland. In front, at the top of the first set of stairs, is Italy’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, framed by two flames and manned by honor guards 24/7.
Italy’s National Monument
Palazzo Venezia with flagged balcony where Mussolini addressed the nation.
On the other side of the Piazza is the Palazzo Venezia or Venetian Palace. The small balcony in the photo below, is where Mussolini declared the Italian empire on behalf of his fascist Black Shirt supporters in 1936, and then later in 1940 delivered his speech declaring war on England. The story is that he had the balcony built small so that he would appear much larger (he was only 5’ 7”).
By the time we got back to our apartment, we all agreed that we were done for the day (more than 20,000 Fitbit steps) except for dinner and gelato.
Tiber River
On the Bridge of Angels over the Tiber River
The following morning, we met Fabio again at the Colosseum, just as it opened. As predicted, the crowds were much smaller, and the temperature much cooler. Our agenda for the tour was to visit the Colosseum, the Forum, the Circus Maximus, House of the Vestals, and from distance, the remains of a gladiator school.
Remains of the Colosseum
The way the Colosseum might have looked in its prime.
Inside the Colosseum
Inside the Colosseum
The Colosseum was built-in 70-80 AD on a site that had been Nero’s personal lake and gardens. It would accommodate up to 80,000 people, seating segregated by social ranking, to watch contests (gladiator vs gladiator, gladiator vs variety of wild animals) and public spectacles. The primary objective was to entertain, to distract the populace, and to discourage any unrest or political ambition. It was used for about 400 years until this type of entertainment waned. Today, the facility is just a shadow of its former glory. The outside wall we see today, was actually an inner wall. The stone of the original outer wall was repurposed to build new structures throughout the Roman empire. Even the colossal bronze statue of Nero, in the courtyard just outside the Colosseum, is long gone – melted down many centuries ago. Rome only began treating the Colosseum as a noteworthy ruin in 1976, when serious efforts to preserve it were launched. The debate of preservation vs. restoration goes on.
Ruins of the Gladiator School.
Across the road we could spot the remains of one of Rome’s gladiator schools. Gladiators, during the Roman Empire’s days, were primarily free men who were recruited by wealthy investors, and trained. They were well compensated and provided living accommodations. The training facility was connected to the Colosseum via an underground tunnel so the gladiators could enter and leave without fanfare. Typically, a promoter would decide to organize a match [much like a boxing match], and pay the investor to rent the gladiators. Any prizes to the winner would be shared between the gladiator and the investor. If the gladiator was accidentally killed or hurt, the promoter would be liable to pay the investor for the ‘loss of his investment.’ Gladiators would only participate in two events per year, but would have a large following of fans anxious to see and pay for the next encounter.
A short walk up the hill we could see the area know as the Circus Maximus. It was Rome’s largest stadium, accommodating over 150,000 spectators, to watch chariot races. Four chariots would race around the oval track. The racers were revered as national heroes, much like today’s boxers or football players, whose followers would wear their colors. Think Ben Hur! As with the Colosseum, its use ended in about the 6th century. We needed a very strong imagination to ‘see’ what it was like in its prime. Today, it’s a not-attractive park, with roads running parallel to the original track. There is nothing “maximus” left.
Remains of The Forum
Remains of The Forum
The Forum ruins.
Walking to the other side of this mountain, we were able to get a panoramic view of the world’s most archaeologically important site – the Forum, originally the main marketplace. It was the governing seat of the Roman Empire. We could see the paltry remains of the Senate building, the Tempio del Divo Giulio where Julius César’s remains were cremated, and the Forum’s main thoroughfare, Via Sacra, once the parade route of triumphal processions. The triumphant leader, in a chariot, would ride on the Via Sacra through an arch, marking the entrance to the Forum, filled to capacity with jubilant, adoring spectators. According to our guide, Fabian, it was customary to have a slave stand next to the leader in the chariot, and whisper the mantra that ‘he was not a god, that he was mortal, and that he would eventually die,’ to manage the hero’s level of narcissism or sense of immortality. At this point Roselie volunteered to the group that she well understood-she has to whisper that to me on a regular basis. Can you imagine? No way!
Triumphal Procession archway and entrance to the Via Sacra
Proceeding down the stairs to the forum level, we stopped by the ruins of the Vestal Virgins’ compound. Their primary responsibility was to keep the sacred fire to the goddess Vesta from extinguishing, to collect water from the sacred spring, and to care for the temple’s sacred objects. The superstition was that should the flame go out, the goddess Vesta would remove her protection of the city. At any one time, there were a maximum of six Vestals. Selected or appointed when they were 6-10 years old, they were committed to a 30-year period of celibacy. After that period, they were free to leave and live whatever life they chose. Violating the celibacy rule would result in death by burying her alive, so as to not spill blood. Letting the flame extinguish was punishable by a whipping with a cat o’nine tails.
Sacred Water protected by Vestal Virgins.
Finally, we walked by the site where Julius Cesar’s remains were cremated. Unlike Shakespeare’s play, Julius was not assassinated in the Forum. The actual site was in the Curio or meeting place in Pompey’s Theatre located in the Largo di Torre Argentina area, about half a mile away from the Forum. Cassius Longinus and Marcus Brutus reportedly stabbed him 23 times. Brutal, Brutus!
Relaxing dinner after a busy day. Mama in the kitchen making Kelly’s dish-Ugh!
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