Shortly after boarding our temporary home for the next six days, we headed out to sea on the way to our first stop – Vardo. We could not see the sunset since it was overcast with a forecast of more of the same for the next several days. By the time we reached Vardo, it was dark. Our stay was only one hour, so getting off the ship was not practical. It is situated on an island, further north and east than Kirkenes, and connected to the mainline by a 1.8 mile ocean tunnel. Fishing and fish processing is the primary economic driver for the small community of less than 2,000 residents.
Leaving Kirkenes On Board The MS MIDNATSOL
NEWS FLASH: Snow, rain, heavy cloud cover – no Aurora Borealis tonight!
Ms Midnatsol At Port In Hammerfest
After several short stops overnight at various ports to deposit and pick up supplies and a few passengers, we arrived at Hammerfest the next morning. “It is the world’s northernmost town” (sic) and was a notable fishing and Arctic hunting settlement before it reached ‘town’ status in the 18th century. Throughout its history, fire and numerous military conflicts played a major role. As an example, during WWII, it was a key U-Boat base missioned to attack Allied supply ships heading to Russia. As we’ve seen several times in this region, the story repeats – the town was bombed by Russia to cripple the Nazi base, then devastated by the Germans as they retreated.
Sue Walking Downtown Hammerfest
Hammerfest’s Cathedral
Hammerfest Cathederal
Hammerfest Cathedral’s Altar
So we slipped on our Sorrel boots and down jackets to venture out into the snow and ice covered little town. The main attractions are a charming little church and cemetery, and more importantly, home to the Royal and Ancient Polar Bear Society, of which, I am now officially a member in “acknowledgement of his outstanding achievement in reaching the top of the world” – that and the contribution of 200 NOK closed the deal. A key benefit as a member of good standing is the right to attend the annual club meeting, each January, and to vote on whatever business matters are brought forth. My official membership certificate, signed by the mayor, testifies to these rights.
Polar Society Polar Bear – Stuffed Of Course
At midnight, our ship will stop at the city center port of Tromso. It is the largest city in northern Norway with a population of about 70,000. The University of Tromso is famous for the largest Aurora Borealis research center in the world. The early settlers were primarily the indigenous Sami people, and people from Finland. The Sami people are a first nation people akin to the Eskimos in North America. They have their own language but are required to learn Norwegian. Their primary source of livelihood is reindeer herding. They have been given the exclusive rights to reindeer herding. We have not seen any Sami people to date. They reportedly do not look Norwegian. Typically, their hair is dark, their skin is tan, and their eyes almond shaped. We expect to meet some later on in our journey.
Bound by darkness and only a two-hour port call, we had the opportunity to attend a midnight concert at the Arctic Cathedral. Prior to the concert our plan was to bundle up, head to the top deck at 9 PM, set up our cameras, and start looking for the Northern Lights.
NEWS FLASH: Cloud cover – Captain announces the clouds should remain all night – no Aurora Borealis tonight!
We broke down our camera set up, returned to our rooms to wait until it was time to leave for the concert. Fell asleep, missed concert!
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