We had an early morning start on the third day of our voyage. We left the ship for a guided four-hour excursion that would take us from Harstad, through the adjoining countryside to our destination – Sortlund – 170 km away, where we would rejoin our ship.
Harstad, with a population of about 25,000, is the administrative center for North Norway’s oil industry. In addition to the oil focus, it is an agricultural center. The surrounding areas of fertile soil and temperate climate make this the ‘breadbasket’ of North Norway. While the growing season is very short, the fact that the sun is up around the clock during the few summer months, accelerates crop growth.
Shopping for local produce is very interesting. If you want some vegetables, fruit, or eggs, the locals just go to a farm that has the items they want, pick them and leave the money in a box. It is an honor-based system, and serves the whole area well. Food items on public lands are available to everyone. As an example, near the footing of a bridge we crossed, you see large, natural mussel beds. It’s a favorite place of the locals.
The city has experienced many conflicts over the centuries. During WWII, Halstad was the site of the German Battery Theo, consisting of four Adolfkannone (Adolf Cannons) to defend the coastal area. These cannons were monsters. Each barrel is 70 ft. long and 16 inches in diameter. It could fire a 2,270 lb shell to a range of 35 miles. The decommissioned cannons are still in place, with one being open to the public with a military guide. Unfortunately, the tours are only available during the summer months.
Downtown Harstad
The center of the city includes a very large, modern hospital whose primary focus is on preventative medicine. Learnings from this center are passed on and implemented throughout Norway. On the topic of health care, the cost of a hospital stay is paid for by the government. However, doctor visits outside the hospital require a co-payment, as do any prescription medication. Norway is known for its excellent health care. However when people smile, it becomes obvious that health care does not extend to dental care. We’ve seen this same dichotomy in many other places in the US and countries throughout the world.
Harstad In The Distance
Trondenes Church
Hammerfest Cathedral’s Alter
We stopped at the Trondenes Church, built during the 1100’s as a Catholic church. The structure was added to and modified several times over the centuries. During the Reformation it was transformed into a Lutheran church. The church, located on a rise, also served as a signpost to fishermen to help guide them home. In addition, every home placed a hanging light or lights on the sill in each window facing the water. While this function is no longer needed, it remains imbedded in the culture and construction of every home.
Viking Days in Harstad
After leaving the church we visited the Trondenes Historical Center (museum) that presented the evolving lifestyle of the area from the Viking days to the present. Very interesting.
Our guide made a special point of telling us about the city’s long history of accepting and caring for refugees – obviously a hot topic for every visitor. A city refugee center had been very active for many years. She told us they welcomed them and learned a lot from them. Personally, she really enjoyed that they enhanced variety on the grocery stores shelves with foods and spices unknown before their arrival. Two years ago, the center was shut down because the refugee pipeline dried up. It reopened recently. Today’s refugees are primarily from Syria.
Countryside On Way To Sortlund
Farming Countryside
As we continued towards the rendezvous with our ship, it began to rain and snow. This would be the weather condition for the next couple of days. Everywhere you look, it was like a black and white photo – beautiful, steely, and without any color. Looking at some photos taken during the warmer season, it is full of vivid colors.
Bridge To Meet Our Ship
Ms Midnatsol Arriving To Pick Us Up
The weather continues to get worse. Last evening saw the winds hitting the ship broadside and 20 foot seas. The captain reduced the speed to help compensate, but it will impact our schedule for the next few stops.
NEWS FLASH: No Aurora Borealis tonight. Several people, including me, went topside just in case…… Yup! High winds, cold sleet pelting us, having to hold on to something to stop from blowing over – CONFIRMED – no Northern Lights tonight!
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