February 19 and 20, 2015
When we originally planned this trip several months ago, we wanted to visit the infamous DMZ [Demilitarized Zone] that separated North and South Vietnam – a pilgrimage. However, as we investigated further and started planning the next level of details, it became clear that it was not worth the effort or time. However, as this window began to close, another window of opportunity, far more exciting, opened up: Hoi An.
The DMZ ran from east to west near the center of today’s unified Vietnam. It’s a strip of land about two kilometers wide and is commonly referred to as the 17th Parallel. To get there, we would have needed to fly into Danang and then endure a four-hour bus ride [each way]. There is no specific site that would give us a focused view of the DMZ – its just a strip of land without demarcation. There are a couple of sites that focus on aspects of the war, but not the DMZ in general. For example, there is a national cemetery with columns and rows of gravestones commemorating 300,000 Vietnamese soldiers declared missing in action. There is also a series of tunnels constructed during the war that served as protection from American bombing, as well as storage for arms and supplies destined to support the North Vietnam army moving into South Vietnam on their advances to Saigon.
Our investigation into this area did reveal two very interesting, alternative places near the DMZ. The imperial city of Hue – a culturally rich center with the largest collection of historical sites in all of Vietnam. In order to experience Hue, we would have to extend our trip by a minimum of three days – perhaps the next time. The second alternative was Hoi An. Hoi An is located about 45 minutes southwest of Danang, near the Pacific Ocean/China Sea. Hoi An was an important port for Western traders in the 16th century. It was a key stop-over in the Silk Rout for trading between Europe and the East – silk, ivory, cloth, tea, pepper, porcelain, etc. This international traffic set up a very successful fusion of Chinese and Japanese cultures symbolized by the Hoi An Cau Nhat Ban Bridge that connects China Street and Japan Street. The town ceased being a port in the 19th century due to build up of silt. The trade business shifted to Danang.
Cau Nhat Ban connecting China Street and Japan Street
Inside the Ban Nhat bridge
Shrine at the center of the bridge
We learned that there was an understanding between North Vietnam, South Vietnam, and the American allies, not to bomb or damage this little town. The quaint town contains more than 800 UNESCO listed monuments and places of historic interest. I’ve included more than the usual number of photos to give a sense of the town. Beautiful!
Entrance to Hoi An Historical Museum
Museum Altar
The old town is composed of narrow streets, temples, wooden houses, pagodas, shops, and assembly halls of the brotherhoods that governed and managed small neighborhoods they call wards. The Thu Bon River runs through the center. It offers an escape from the bustle of the streets. A leisurely ride in a sampan ride with a woman pushing an oar to move and to navigate gives you another perspective on the town. The charm of Vietnamese lanterns hanging everywhere suggests a theme park or Venice [?] – I’ve not been to Venice. Yet!
Typical traffic in the small streets of Old Town
Altar in Main Chinese Temple
Hoi An Shrine
Hoi An is a very popular vacation and honeymoon destination for all Vietnamese. As you walk the streets and alleys, your eyes and attention need to get past the obfuscation by shops and street vendors to see the beauty and details that make this place special. There are many temples, pagodas, and meeting halls decorated for Tet. This is the time for everyone to visit a temple or pagoda and honor their deceased parents, and to wish for a good next year. It is customary to carry burning incense sticks and bow three times at the altar or shrine. Our guide helped us to ‘see’ and to immerse in the cultural history. One of the temples had a fortune stick station. The stick [just like a fortune cookie] has a number on it. Roselie selected one and took the number on the stick over to another station that gave her a note predicting her next year. Everyone around her started talking very excitedly and patting her arm, hoping some of the luck would rub off. Seems she had picked a very rare and special stick. As best we could make out, Roselie is going to have a very lucky, fantastic, powerful year [- but of course]. Is she going to run against Hilary? And win?
Honoring ancestors on Tet – New Years Day
Grandpa with his little Emperor
Picking a stick to predict the next year.
We visited a silk factory where they showed us the various stages of how silk is made, starting with small caterpillars [silkworms] feeding on mulberry leaves. After five weeks of growth and several moltings, the caterpillars begin spinning a cocoon. After more time, the pupae is harvested and put into boiling water to kill the moth inside. The cocoon may then be unraveled by pulling out a single, continues, silk thread. The thread from each cocoon is more than a kilometer in length. Amazing! The factory produces silk cloth as well as products like tablecloths, runners, and hanging embroidered art. We finished the morning with a memorable, outdoor lunch on the bank of the river.
Caterpillars enjoying mulberry leaves and growing rapidly
Silkworms – not very pretty!
Growing in size before harvesting them
Pupae is pulled out of the boiling water
Pulling the silk thread out of the pupae
It was time to take a break, at our hotel, the beautiful Hoi An Ancient House Village, just one kilometer from old town. It served as a serene place to rest and recharge our batteries before heading back into town.
Mellowness after a great lunch by the river
Joy after our first great meal in Vietnam
This seems like a good time to take a moment and write about our ‘food’ experience. Many of us are foodies. As part of my blog, my objective was to find, experience, and record a couple of recipes for delicious, local dishes which we might make at home. Until our visit to Hoi An, I would describe our food experience as reasonable, but far short of expectations – as they say, nothing to write home about. That includes our eateries in Hanoi and Saigon. Depressing! That changed when we hit Hoi An. The food at our hotel, at the restaurant on the riverbank, and other places we ate, was delicious and different! Hoi An saved the food trip. One thing of note if you’re traveling in Vietnam is that they use MSG in almost every dish….even ketchup. If you ask whether or not a dish contains MSG, most won’t know what you’re talking about. Beware, if you are allergic to MSG.
Jump! Get out-of-the-way!
Scooters, and a few people come to honor ancestors at the main temple. Beep, Beep.
Meandering down the slow river
Hoi An, given its very narrow streets, is a pedestrian friendly place with no cars, or scooters. EXCEPT – for the busiest, most crowded holiday of the year – you guessed it: Tet. I have yet to understand the decision process and logic that allows thousands of pesky scooters to drive through crowded streets, beeping their horns almost continuously, only to park side-by-side in every available space on the street or sidewalk. There was only one antidote: Lets go shopping and get out of the street. I can report that the four of us [Barbara, Roselie, Mel, and I] did our part in helping the local economy by filling all open spaces in our suitcases and back-packs: silk embroidered table coverings, several sets of earrings, money clip, embroidered art work, Vietnamese outdoor lanterns [assembly required], cut-out cards, T-shirts, hats, hand-made chop sticks, etc. The only thing that held us back was the weight limits on luggage by the airlines.
Newly accepted Comrades Mel and Barbara
Now we are ready to start our journey home. The first stop is spending tonight in Saigon. It will be an opportunity to eat at a reportedly wonderful Italian restaurant, and to repack our ‘stuff’ so we can make it through customs.
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